July 2020 - Swim Sky Breathe

July 21, 2020December 2, 2020

Camping in Shieldaig – our first trip in our van Irene!

The July weekend we spent camping in Shieldaig was extra special as it was so long awaited. We timed the purchase of our campervan a little badly, not that we could have known this at the time back in the pre Covid days of 2020 January! It took a few weeks for the van to be converted, so by the time it was ready it coincided almost immediately with lockdown and we were only able to enjoy a couple of days out in it before leaving it to sit forlornly outside our house. In that time we decided to name her Irene, after Colin’s grandma who sadly died last year.

Once it was announced that we could go somewhere with Irene, we knew we wanted to head north west for the fresh clean air of the Highlands. We’d never visited Shieldaig before, a tiny village on the north west Highland coast, and the newly renovated campsite there overlooking the sea looked perfect.

Shieldaig is well known for Shieldaig Island a short distance from the shore, on which a pair of newly reintroduced to Scotland white tailed eagles live with their chicks. We didn’t see the eagles, but the island is a popular spot for local swimmers and kayakers to circle around. We also spotted the local war monument, which shows amongst the village men who lost their lives in both wars the name of a local Shieldaig woman – newly wed Margaret McKenzie – who tragically died aboard the Lusitania in 1915.

There’s a well stocked village shop and two restaurants that overlook the shore, all two minutes walk of the well appointed campsite. The Shieldaig Coastal Kitchen has a roof terrace overlooking the bay, though the menu is meat and fish heavy with very little for vegans and vegetarians. The campsite owners, locals Ruairidh and Hazel, are very friendly and accommodating and were really helpful and responsive in the run up to our trip. The hard standing electric pitches had grass next to them for a pup tent, and there are also grass pitches and two glamping cabins, as well as showers, toilets and a laundry and washing up room.

There are plenty of things to do in the surrounding area. We decided to drive to Skye, which is around an hour away over the Skye Bridge. Colin used to live in Skye and claims partial responsibility for the waiving of the bridge toll after he protested paying it back in the nineties. His 2020 wife and children were very grateful for his teenage protest! We headed to Glenbrittle to swim in the fairy pools, then visited the lovely capital of Portree, where we had some of the best chippy chips ever at the small harbour – fried in vegetable oil and just the right combination of greasy and crispy.

Crossing the stepping stones on the way to the Fairy Pool. Wear sturdy shoes – don’t be like me who ended up with soaking wet Converse!

Closer to Shieldaig, there are the Torridon Hills of Beinn Alligin, Sgurr Mhor, Liathach and Beinn Eighe which vary in difficulty, as well as countless hill and shore walks for all abilities. To the south is the town of Applecross, which can be reached on one of the most breathtaking drives in the country; with its tight bends and spectacular views, it’s the steepest road in the UK. You can also go for a swim in the clear waters off Shieldaig shore if you want a morning pick me up – the village and shore are two minute’s walk from the campsite. Shieldaig is also a great place to stop for those touring the North Coast 500. If you’re lucky you might spot a red deer, and we saw a baby red squirrel as well as fields of iconic Highland cows.

The view from the campsite – waking up to this was pretty unbeatable!

As our trip camping in Shieldaig was our first outing in our van, it was definitely a learning experience. I expected to forget more things than we actually did – which were a scourer for the dishes and a small dustpan and brush for the van floor. The van was so comfortable to sleep in, and the view that we woke up to each morning was breathtaking, despite the typically Highland weather – when you’re holidaying in the west of Scotland, good weather is a bonus but never something to be relied upon, so pack good shoes and a waterproof coat! I really recommend this lovely tranquil place at the edge of Scotland for those who want to disconnect from all the noise and reconnect with nature. You won’t want to leave, and we will definitely be back.

https://www.shieldaigcampingandcabins.co.uk/

July 16, 2020December 2, 2020

De’ils Cauldron and Comrie Walk

This walk to the De’ils Cauldron waterfall has to be one of my favourite Scottish walks. It has everything – a pretty Scottish village, woodland replete with nature, dramatic waterfalls, cool dark forests and a stunning panoramic view at the end.

Start off in the lovely village of Comrie, which is about an hour’s drive north from Edinburgh, from where there are also buses. Comrie has won awards for its horticulture and beauty, so a stroll through the village is definitely worthwhile. Once you’ve taken in the sights, including the White Church with its ancient churchyard, park up at the De’ils Cauldron car park. From there, take a right through the woods towards the waterfalls. This is a fairly easy walk on a slight uphill.

You’ll notice I said waterfalls, as the first waterfall you come to is the Wee Cauldron. It’s just as pretty as its bigger sister, though less dramatic, with a calmer view of the River Lednock.

From here, press on along a path and walkway to the De’ils Cauldron, where the River Lednock cascades out dramatically into the falls. The Gaelic for the falls is Slocha’n Donish, and the legend goes that they were inhabited by a mischievous water elf called Uris-chidh who would entice victims down into its lair. There are stairs down to a wooden platform from which you can admire the view and take photos.

Carry on from here along the walkway to the forest, which was as beautiful and still as you can hope a forest to be on the day we went – so cool and still and peaceful. There’s a walk uphill for about 20 minutes, which gets a little steep towards the end.

You’re rewarded for your hard work by an incredible view of Perthshire and the surrounding countryside, as you emerge next to the Melville Monument on Dun More hill. If you’ve brought a picnic, now’s the time to stop and enjoy it!

This walk is tiring in places, so don’t forget your water like I did, and be reduced to quenching your thirst with your eight year old’s Barr’s Bubblegum juice!

We rewarded ourselves with some millionaire’s shortbread at the end of what is definitely one of my favourite Scottish walks. I’d like to do it again in a different season, and am looking forward to returning again in the autumn, with water this time!

July 6, 2020December 2, 2020

Vegan Millionaire’s Shortbread

A long walk needs snacks, both as a reward for all the miles you’ve trodden and as encouragement to keep going along the way.

This millionaire’s shortbread is slightly more time consuming as it has three steps, to the point where I put it in the freezer to set so it would be ready in time for our walk! It’s worth the effort though. This makes about 12 medium size squares.

Ingredients

250g plain flour

75g icing sugar

Sea salt

Vegan butter – I used Naturli – 175g for the shortbread and 175g for the caramel

200g maple or golden syrup or agave nectar

175g brown sugar

100g caster sugar

150ml plant milk

1 tsp vanilla extract

200g dark chocolate

Method

First make the shortbread. After preheating the oven to 170/Gas Mark 4, combine the icing sugar, a pinch of salt and flour in a bowl. Work the vegan butter into the mixture by rubbing it into a breadcrumb like consistency with your fingers until all the lumps are gone. Then press the mixture into a rectangular cake tin, making sure it is tightly packed in to the tin. Prick with a fork all over and bake for 20 minutes until golden. Let it cool.

Then make the caramel. It’s very useful to have a sugar thermometer for this bit. Put the butter, syrup, brown and caster sugar and plant milk in a pan and stir, bringing to the boil until they reach 115 degrees on your thermometer or until is bubbling vigorously. When it gets to that point, add the vanilla and salt and remove from the heat. Stir for ten minutes then pour on the cooled shortbread.

Finally, melt the chocolate – the easiest way is to put it in a heatproof bowl over a pan of boiling water. Pour it over the cooled shortbread and caramel and refrigerate to set (or put in the freezer if you’re in a rush!)