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July 29, 2022

Chettle Orchard Campsite

Some campsites are just a place to lay your head at night before going out to explore the wider world.

Chettle Orchard Campsite is not one of those campsites. You won’t want to leave this gem of a place nestled in the Dorset countryside, despite the plethora of wonderful local attractions that surround it. It’s a destination in itself, a place to relax, recharge your batteries, and immerse yourself in its old-school vibe and stunning surroundings. This is camping how your mum and dad did it, and it’s perfect.

Chettle Orchard Campsite opened last year, and offers camping pitches as well as pre-pitched bell tents that can be rented furnished or unfurnished. We were three adults and two children in a furnished tent, which came with soft pillows and duvets and crisp sheets, crockery and cutlery, as well as fresh local fruit and pear juice and Prosecco on ice to welcome us.

Each tent provides plenty of space so that you’re not listening to the family next door having breakfast, as well as a picnic table and benches and a dug out fire pit – firewood is available on site and in the local shop.

There are compost loos and showers, as well as washing up facilities, and a lovely communal area with rustic haystacks and throw cushions where you can settle down with one of the many books dotted around. I enjoyed losing myself in a 1980s Good Housekeeping recipe book, a trip down memory lane!

Local yoga teacher Jordana offers morning yoga, which takes place in the communal gazebo in the centre of the site. We couldn’t think of a better way to start off the day than saluting the sun looking out across the stunning Dorset landscape, with Jordana’s soothing encouragement in a gentle session for all levels and abilities.

Chettle local Liam offers foraging walks, which last two hours and leave from the campsite. The walk comes at a fraction of the price of other similar sessions – only £10 per person, with concessions – and worth every penny.

The walk began with some home made pineapple weed juice, made using a pineapple weed syrup that Liam had created – it tasted so good! This was followed by some of his delicious home made seed flapjacks before setting off on our walk. We learned so much in two hours – from how to find a soothing ready made plant gel to put on stings and burns, where to pick flowers that steeped in tea will give you lucid dreams, which herbs will stem bleeding and how to spot and prepare nutritious seeds that can be added to dishes for flavour and bite. It was a fantastic experience and we enjoyed every minute – suitable for children and adults alike.

Liam points out some Queen Anne’s lace on our foraging walk.

Another highlight of Chettle is its lovely, quirky village shop, which sells everything from firewood to locally made candles, fresh fruit and veg and vegan marshmallows for toasting over the fire. There are big plans to move the shop to the Food Hub that the village is planning to open in a few years time… more on that later. For now, it’s a charming place to do a little shopping.

You won’t want to miss a stroll around the village after a visit to the shop. Walk through the dreamy thatched cottages to the amazing kid’s playpark (even adult sized kids won’t be able to resist a bounce on the trampolines and jumping aboard the life sized ship) and then up through the old dairy farm that has been completely reclaimed by nature, abundant with wildflowers and some particularly juicy blackberries.

You could spend your time at Chettle Orchard never leaving the village, but if you do choose to venture further, there’s plenty to do.

The campsite adjoins The Jubilee Way, which links four counties and runs through Dorset’s AONB, Cranborne Chase, and the Chalke Valley – all stunningly beautiful. If you don’t want to take your car, you can walk for miles with the village as your starting point and be back in time for sausages and marshmallows over the campfire. Further afield, there’s Tisbury for river and lake walks, about 25 minutes from Chettle.

If you fancy some swimming, head to Fiddleford Manor as we did. It’s about 20 minutes drive from the campsite, with a lovely river that drops down into tiered weirs and a pond to swim in. There’s also a great spot just outside of Downton with a bridge you can dive off into crystal clear waters – take a right as you exit out of the village heading into the New Forest. Godshill is also a beautiful spot on the same river that’s hidden under the treeline. It takes some finding and can get busy in the summer but is worth it!

If the sea is calling, the world famous Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove are a 40 minute drive. away. Both get very busy but are amazing places to swim, though Durdle is for competent swimmers only – there’s quite a pull as you swim back through the door to the shore. Both are unforgettable swims though and worth the journey!

That is Colin, honestly! At Durdle Door.

Chettle is owned by local landowner Alice Favre, who has big plans for the village. A committed environmentalist, together with the local community she is spearheading a fifty year plan designed to mitigate the worst effects of climate change in the village and ensure that Chettle is somewhere that future generations can live, work and thrive.

As well contribute to tackling climate change, her vision is for a community that has future-proofed itself by leading a diverse response to climate change through investing in a sustainable future. It’s a compelling case. Regenerative farming, agriforesty, rewilding, and moving away from destructive industrial practises that have damaged food production to ones that look to a natural balance are all ideas that are increasingly finding purchase among forward-looking farmers, landowners, organisations and so on. Key to this is the community having a greater connection to the land, and key to that is improving access.

Central to Chettle’s plan is their Food Hub initiative, which will make use of an old dairy farm in the village centre. The space will be transformed into a hub with a cafe and new shop, offering local, ethically sourced produce. Locals and visitors will be able to purchase products grown or produced within a few miles of the shop, reinforcing that hugely important connection between consumer and the land.

As well as restoring the old dairy, Alice and her fellow directors have also led on the restoration of local housing, increasing capacity and helping to grow the community, though demand it seems far outstrips supply – plenty of people want to live here, and for us at least, the campsite with its easy-going and super comfortable bell tents was a perfect solution.

Chettle can be reached by bus from Southampton Central rail station. It’s about two hours drive from London if you’re taking the car.

Prices start at £28 per night for a grass pitch and £100 per night for a fully furnished bell tent. You can book here.

Useful Links

Find Jordana, our yoga teacher, at @forage_and_flow on Instagram

Find Liam’s foraging walks on Instagram at @walkingpaceonly

Chettle Orchard Campsite

Chettle Village Store

December 31, 2021December 31, 2021

2021 Review – A look back at the year we didn’t see coming …

Like most of us, we went into 2021 feeling hopeful that we were coming to the end of the pandemic, that with the introduction of vaccinations we’d all be out of the woods soon and back to normal life by maybe … Spring? Summer at the latest, anyway.

As we all know, it didn’t quite turn out like that. You don’t need us to rehash the last twelve months – we all know how it went. Yet despite the restrictions and gloom and ups and downs, we managed to make 2021 a year that we’re saying goodbye to with some memories that make us smile. We’ve climbed hills and mountains, cycled along green country lanes, swum in the sea at both ends of the country, watched dolphins burst out of the water so they were almost close enough to touch, and eaten lots and lots of delicious (plant-based) food.

2021 Review - An Lochan Uaine — Colin swimming in An Lochan Uaine

2021 Review: Favourite swim

CAROLINE : Hard to chooose, but my favourite was probably a swim in a little loch near Aviemore called Loch Vaa. It was a beautiful, hot August day and the water was at least 12 degrees and felt wonderful in the hot sun. We both did handstands and swam as the children played on the shore. A perfect Scottish swim. I also had a lovely swim on my birthday in October in Loch Lubnaig. First thing in the morning, the water was as chilly and clear as you’d expect on a late autumn morning in Scotland. – the best way to start a birthday, and a new year of my life.

COLIN: I doubt I’m alone when I say that choosing a top swim is a challenge! Selecting the one that got away is, sadly, somewhat easier.

The swim that escaped me was the Ullswater Chill Swim, a seven-mile summertime epic from Glenridding to Pooley Bridge. Two weeks before the event I was struck down with Covid. Despite being at peak fitness, with regular winter swims and longer training swims behind me, overnight I went from a strong swimmer capable of swimming several sea miles to a weak swimmer who couldn’t bear the cold and who struggled to do 100m. It was a real blow, and while I’m still not back to the level of swim-fit I was in June I’ve high hopes for 2022!

So while the big Chill Swim escaped me, there were a plenty of other cracking swims during 2021. A night swim down the River Cam under a full moon. A freezing Loch Morlich dip with my sister. My first ice kilometre and other numb, fun swims with the Wardie Shiver Club. A roasting splashabout in Loch Vaa with my wife, kids and cousins and their families. A swoosh down the River Teith. The Fairy Pools with my son.

But with Wardie Bay on my doorstep until our move down south, it’s hardly surprising three of my favourite swims hail from there. In February, plummeting temperatures froze the sand and saw sea water turn to icy slush on the shore. On one particular day, big easterly winds brought in some serious waves, the remnants of a huge storm out to sea. The water was challenging 3.8C. My friends Lachlan, Christa and Tine and I went in anyway. Too stormy even for the surfers, we bounced about in the icy waves; gleeful, high, joyous. Massive grins and numb fingers.

2021 Review - ice swimming at Wardie Bay — Brrrrrrrilliant swimming at Wardie Bay last winter.

Another top swim was with my friend Sam, when we swam from Wardie Bay to Newhaven Harbour and back for the first time. At around 2.8k there and back, it’s not a particularly long swim, but it was the first time I’d done it and there was a real pleasure in kicking off the harbour wall for the return leg, and experiencing the changing currents and flow for this great bay swim. He and I swam it a few times and I can’t wait to give it another go.

My third Wardie Swim was one of my last. A fond farewell swim with many of the fine folk, all of them friends, who we’d had the pleasure of swimming with over the past few years. Family aside, that’s what I miss most about leaving Scotland.

As much as these were all swimming highlights, my favourite swim of the year wasn’t about pushing the distance or braving the cold. It was jumping off rocks into a Trossachs loch with my friends George and Jen. I was still recovering from Covid – the week before a 100m swim had proved exhausting – so we’d opted for a splashabout instead. We cycled for a few km along bike trails to a hidden cliff overlooking a deep part of a wee Scottish loch. I struggled on the bike ride, and was nervous about the cold, remnants of Covid still making themselves felt. After a short scramble over brush, moss and heather, we came to this fantastic wall of rocky slabs reaching out into the water, the highest about two metres. Again and again we jumped off into the deep lack loch water. Diving down. Climbing out. Jumping off again. Splashing. Laughing. It was the best. Adrenalin and wellbeing flowed through me. I felt restored, physically and mentally.

2021 Review: Favourite camping holiday

Both of us had the same choice here – our camping holiday in Aviemore at Dalraddy in June!

CAROLINE :This was the second time we’d camped here, and for good reason – it’s such a perfect little campsite that has everything you could ask for. There’s plenty of space for each pitch, clean and modern showers and loos, picnic tables, a choice of electric hook up and of course an incredible location right in the Cairngorms with everything it offers on your doorstep. We camped here with family, with room for our campervan, tent and gazebo on our pitch, and their three bedroom tent on theirs. The site is huge but feels very safe, so children can roam around freely, playing football and hide and seek till the sun goes down. There’s even a shop that sells basics and a cafe with vegan food!

2021 Review - Dalraddy Campsite — Dalraddy Campsite

COLIN: It’s such a brilliant location, and while the facilities can be a bit or the basic side, I much prefer this to more sanitised sites. Loved the freedom it gave our kids, but also the proximity to so many activities and experiences. Bike hire and mountain biking. Gorge-walking and tree-climbing. Wild swimming and forest bathing. I can’t wait to go back and explore more.

2021 Review: Favourite walk

We’ve had lots of walks in Scotland and England this year, in all weathers, up mountains, along meandering quiet rivers, across spectacular cliffs and around deep blue lochs.

CAROLINE: My favourite was our walk up the Fyrish Monument, near Dingwall, in late July during a family holiday in the Black Isle. It was a beautiful day with the sun splitting the skies when we climbed. This was both wonderful and slightly tiresome as the heat beat down on our backs as we emerged from the forest. The blue skies made views from the top even more spectacular, and once we’d taken in the great sweep of the Cromarty Firth and dark, looming Ben Wyvis, we admired the monument, built in 1783 by the local laird to provide employment for the locals. You can read more about our holiday in the Black Isle here.

2021 Review - Walking to the Fyrish Monument — The Fyrish Monument

COLIN: In October we enjoyed a big family gathering near Aviemore for my Auntie’s 70th. On the Saturday, as various folk went off on restorative bike rides, explores, walks or just endless games of hide and seek, Caroline and I, joined by one of our kids, took a hike up Meall a’ Bhuachaille, a cracking but serious Corbett that is famous for its views. With the path easy to follow, and the weather perfect, we easily made the exposed summit, although somewhat out of breath. Most of my Scottish hillwalking memories are of grey clouds and horizontal rain; Meall a’ Bhuachaille more than made up for it. There is a stunning panoramic view from the top, from the nearby Northern Corries of the Cairngorm range, over to Loch Morlich then reaching out to a stunning serrated skyline that wraps all around you.

2021 Review - Ryvoan Bothy — The Ryvoan Bothy on the way down Meall a’Bhuachaille.

After sugared almonds and rehydration at the top, it was time to get going. In general, I much prefer a steep ascent over the repetitive strain of a steep and winding descent, and Meall a’ Bhuachaille was unforgiving in this sense. An old climbing injury to my ankle means every step down jars, so by the time we were on the flat track back through beautiful woodland I was limping quite badly. But as we passed the stunning green An Lochan Uaine, a firm favourite and another top swim spot, spirits were lifted and aches eased when we bumped into a group of swimmers from Edinburgh! It was a tremendous coincidence and lovely especially to see Christine, Tanya and Susie, who I’d regularly swum with at Wardie Bay for the past few years.

2021 Review: Favourite recipe

As always, we’ve made and eaten so much delicious plant-based food in 2021. and there were definitely a few standouts. Our vegan jambalaya with sausage, rice and red wine was a definite crowd pleaser, easy to make, and brilliant for camping. I loved our lemon spaghetti with chickpeas and sage from our new garden – best enjoyed alfresco in the sunshine. And the Edgy Veg’s lobster rolls made with hearts of palm are out of this world!

2021 Review - Vegan Jambalaya — Vegan jambalaya

COLIN: As much as I loved Caroline’s campsite Peanut Butter Curry (it’s now a camping staple), one of my favourites is her Vegan Smoked Salmon Blinis with Sour Cream. Utterly delicious and a real treat! I love seeing folks’ reactions when you tell them the “salmon” is actually made from marinaded carrot! It’s a doddle to make; just needs a bit of planning. And the vegan goat curry from London-based vegan Caribbean takeaway Jam Delish at the Vegan Campout in September was out of this world.

2021 Review: Favourite moment

CAROLINE: We’re really lucky to have lots of wonderful 2021 moments to choose from. Standing on Chanonry Point shivering as we waited for a pod of dolphins appear and the excitement as a mother and her baby burst out of the water was one. Sitting around a campfire with family, playing twenty questions under the stars and eating marshmallows was another. And jumping into the cool Cam on a baking 30 degrees day in Cambridge was one more.

COLIN: Getting Covid was the low point of 2021. It knocked my fitness, but also hit my motivation. I’d given up coaching in Edinburgh, and had hoped to quickly reprise in Cambridge. Being ill within days of moving sapped all my motivation, which in turn led to a gloomy spiral that sapped my swimming and coaching mojo. So returning to swim coaching has been a massive thrill for me, especially as it’s at such a wonderful location, the historic Jesus Green Lido, the UK’s longest outdoor pool. One of the great things about coaching is being able to see, week on week, a swimmer’s improvement as you work with them. It’s incredibly rewarding, and I hope it’ll continue and indeed grow in 2022.

The other top moment of the past year was when our big family all got together. Grandparents and parents, kids and cousins, brothers and sisters, aunties and uncles, it was a joy to have (almost) everyone all in one place. It felt like a major victory against lockdown and all the restrictions and setbacks we’ve all had to bear. We hope you also had a similar happy experience with your families and/or friends.

As we go into 2022, we’re full of hope and excitement – hope that this year will be a little easier for all of us, and excitement about all of the things we can do, despite the C word. Happy new year!

November 5, 2021November 6, 2021

Hostelling in the Cairngorms in Autumn

We were lucky enough to spend the weekend in the Cairngorms, in celebration of Colin’s auntie Sheila’s 70th birthday. As tourism season in the Highlands was coming to an end, auntie had booked the entire Cairngorm Lodge Youth Hostel for the festivities, which saw hordes of family from all corners of the UK and beyond descending on Glenmore one wet Friday in October.

Although time was short and we only had two nights and a full day, we made sure that we packed plenty in, including swimming in Loch Morlich, climbing a mountain, eating enough chilli and pizza to sink a ship and even bumping into some friends at a quiet lochan high up in the mountains!

Where we stayed
We stayed at the Cairngorm Lodge Youth Hostel – seven miles from Aviemore and just a two minute walk from the shores of Loch Morlich. It offers a range of rooms, from singles, twins and doubles to dormitories, with clean, modern showers and a large kitchen. There’s also a refectory, a conservatory with spectacular views of the mountains to enjoy over breakfast, and a large living room with a pool table.

What we did
As well as ceilidhing the night away, eating our body weight in pizza, catching up over coffee and French toast made by Colin, and enjoying a few games of pool, we wanted to make the most of the stunning surroundings of the hostel.

Loch Morlich is one of our favourite Scottish lochs, where we’ve spent summers kayaking and swimming and winters walking round the beautiful Rothiemurchus forest that fringes the loch …. and swimming! It’s just across the road from the hostel, and with its wide golden sandy beach, views of the majestic Cairngorms and still, clear waters, it would have been rude not to (although I did just watch from the shore!) The temperature was a brisk 6.5 degrees, so no one stayed in for long. There were also paddle boarders and kayaks on the loch, undeterred by the chilly temperatures and rain.

Meall a’ Bhuachaille is a four hour circuit from the foot of the hostel, through pretty woodland and then on to the slopes of the 543m high mountain, leading to incredible views across to Loch Morlich and the Cairngorms. The last ten minutes of the ascent are steep, with steps instead of a path for much of it, so you’ll definitely feel you’ve earned a rest at the top. We sat in the sheltered cairn and replenished our energy with some sugared almonds from House of Bruar, where we’d stopped on the way up the road to Aviemore.

The way down leads you past an Lochan Uaine, where to our delight we encountered the Wardie Bay wild swimmers of Edinburgh, who’d taken a trip up to the Cairngorms for the weekend and had just enjoyed a dip in the green lochan. We also passed the Ryvoan bothy, which was kitted out for walkers with a fireplace, candles, table and cooking equipment – the hiker we met there looked very cosy enjoying some biscuits while his socks dried outside!

What we ate
We all sat down to dinner on the Friday night in the large refectory, where Colin’s cousin Jenny was a total superstar and made three types of chilli, including this vegan chilli. She kindly shared the recipe, which serves 4.

Ingredients

1 stick celery, chopped

1 large white onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, minced or chopped

2 tbsp tomato puree

Splash of balsamic vinegar

1 tsp veg stock

2 tins chopped tomatoes

2 tins kidney beans

2 tins black beans

1-2 tsp chilli flakes depending on how spicy you like your chilli!

1 tsp paprika

1 tsp cumin

2 tbsp nutritional yeast

Lime to season

Method

Heat a tbsp oil in a large wok and fry the onions over a medium heat for five minutes.

Add the garlic and spices and fry for another minute, then add the tomatoes, vinegar, beans, celery, stock and nutritional yeast.

Bring the mixture to the boil then leave to simmer on a low heat for 40 minutes.

Enjoy with a squeeze of lime, rice and tortillas and our vegan soured cream.

On Saturday night, thirty pizzas from Cheese and Tomatin were ordered in and eaten for dinner, post ceilidh snacks, and breakfast the next day!

Already dreaming of our next trip to this wonderful part of Scotland!

If you liked this, check out our post about a week in the Black Isle.

August 10, 2021September 12, 2021

A Holiday in the Black Isle – Dolphins, Kayaks and Nessie!

We were lucky enough to have a week’s holiday in the Black Isle this July. The Black Isle isn’t actually an island – or black – but an isthmus just north of Inverness in Scotland, surrounded by water on three sides. It takes its name from the deep dark woodland that used to cover it. Before our holiday, we’d driven through it but never actually spent time there, and were keen to fit as much as possible into our week. It’s a beautiful part of Scotland, and virtually midge free, which is a huge bonus if you’ve ever spent a holiday in Scotland plagued by midges!

If you’re thinking about visiting this wonderful part of Scotland, here are some outdoor things you might like to do.

Dolphin watching at Chanonry Point. Chanonry Point, jutting out into the Moray Firth, is one of the best places in the UK to spot dolphins. When we arrived on a slightly drizzly Tuesday morning, there was a large group of people on the beach, some of whom had been waiting for hours. We decided to give ourselves an hour waiting on the beach, to see if the pod of dolphins that make a regular appearance to feed close to the shore might decide to show themselves. And we weren’t disappointed – just before our hour was up, two bottlenose dolphins swam towards the shore, and stopped only about three metres away from the shoreline. It was absolutely enchanting watching them jump and play in the water, and we felt that we’d witnessed something very special. The best time to see them is on a rising tide, which is around one hour after low tide. It’s really difficult to get parked at Chanonry Point, as the car park is very small and a LOT of people turn up there every day. If it’s possible for you to do, try to park in nearby Fortrose, or get a bus from Inverness to Fortrose – it’s one mile from Chanonry Point, and you can walk the rest of the way.

Sylvia Duckworth / *Dolphins at Chanonry Point.*

If dolphin watching makes you feel like a dip in the sea yourself, just along from Chanonry Point is Rosemarkie Beach, where we spent an afternoon kayaking and swimming. Facing out onto the Moray Firth, this wide sandy beach is fringed by woodland and has tennis courts, a play area and the Rosemarkie Beach Cafe (which has vegan options, including vegan ice cream) – everything you need for a perfect day at the Scottish seaside.

Ecoventu res run wildlife watching tours in the Moray Firth, including a two hour trip to see the bottlenose dolphins of the Firth. There’s no guarantee you’ll spot them, but you’ll be in safe hands as local Sarah takes you out on the Saorsa on a trip that’s designed to minimise impact on the surrounding wildlife.

Poyntzfield Herb Nursery is also worth a visit. They have been growing herbs organically and biodynamically since 1976 and offer an opportunity to buy over 400 varieties of plants and seeds from a local, agro-ecological producer. Open from March to September.

On the second day of our holiday, our munro loving cousin suggested an ‘easy, four mile walk’ up to the Fyrish Monument near Dingwall. Built by Sir Hector Munro in 1782 on Fyrish Hill in order to provide employment for the locals, the monument is certainly a four mile walk, but ‘easy’ was probably an exaggeration to get everyone off their feet and up a hill! Nevertheless, it’s a beautiful walk, though the upward part is steep in places and the ground isn’t the smoothest – so wear decent boots and take plenty of water. It’s worth the effort though – after emerging from the still green forest, you’re rewarded at the top with stunning views of the Moray Firth to your left and the Cairngorm mountains to your right.

The Fairy Glen is another Black Isle highlight, and it looks just as beautiful as you’d expect from the name. A 25 minute gentle walk from Rosemarkie takes you through woodland and past burbling streams to this magical glen with its beautiful waterfalls and abundance of local wildlife – if you’re lucky, you might see a heron or buzzard at this RSPB reserve.

**Upper waterfall, Fairy Glen, Rosemarkie**
cc-by-sa/2.0 – © Rob Farrow – geograph.org.uk/p/6078698

Loch Ness isn’t actually in the Black Isle, but a 40 minute drive away – it seemed rude not to visit the UK’s top wild swimming spot while we were in the area. After a visit to Nessieland in Drumnadrochit – and I’m still not really sure what to say about that as it was such a bizarre experience, so go and check it out for yourself – we headed to Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. If you’re visiting Loch Ness, after getting your fix of history at the castle, choose your spot to take the plunge in the waters, which are icy in winter and tepid on the hot July day we were there. Fort Augustus is a popular spot to swim from -and if you’re feeling tempted to do some serious swimming, there’s a charity relay swim in Loch Ness next year to raise money for Aspire. As always with wild swimming, do take extra care – Loch Ness is hundreds of feet deep in places, and the water can get very cold.

There are plenty of campsites and B&Bs in and around Inverness. Black Isle Yurts have beautiful individually built and fully furnished yurts in private woodland with stoves, beds with duvets and pillows, and gas cookers. Fortrose Bay Campsite has stunning views over the Moray Firth, offers electric hook up and welcomes well behaved dogs, and you can eat your breakfast on the beach – you might even spot some dolphins if you’re lucky. And Loch Ness Glamping located just down the road in Glen Urquhart has tent pitches and hobbit houses where you’ll wake up to the sound of the river and birds and surrounded by bluebells, willow herb, foxgloves, daffodils, gorse, broom and any number of less well known Highland wild flowers.. There are BBQs for every hobbit house, and a children’s play area – bliss!

If you liked this, check out our guide to camping in Shieldaig in the Scottish Highlands.

November 24, 2020December 2, 2020

Caroline’s Wild Swimming Journey

I’ve been swimming in the sea for four years now, so wanted to share my wild swimming journey in this blog. Here’s the story of how I got into wild swimming….

“You’ve got to try it” said Colin, his lips blue, his teeth chattering and his skin the colour of a lobster. We were standing on Portobello beach. I think it was January 2016, during the Christmas holidays. Colin had been swimming in the sea, rivers and lochs for three years by this point. The colder the water, the better.

I could see that he was getting something out of it, I just couldn’t understand what that something was. To me, someone who hates the cold, it looked like a miserable way to spend half an hour. I’d always loved swimming in the sea as a child, but that was in summer, in warm-ish water, not the depths of a Scottish winter when the water temperature was in single figures. As an adult, and a weak swimmer, I hadn’t done more than put my feet in the water – then snatch them out again seconds later – for years. No, make that decades.

Fast forward to that summer, on holiday on the island of Iona. It was a beautiful sunny day, and we were down at the beach. “Put your feet in” said Colin. “Just see if you can do it for ten seconds”. I did. It wasn’t just cold, it was painful. I could feel the blood shooting from my core into my toes and my whole body rebelling against the icy shock of the freezing water, though it was probably about 13 degrees, which is toasty warm by most wild swimmers’ standards. I honestly couldn’t stand it. I felt a bit ashamed for being such a wimp – I used to swim in this sea when I was wee!

Over the next few days I tried to build up from ten seconds, to thirty, then fifty, then a minute. And on our last day, I decided I’d go for a swim. I didn’t have a swimsuit with me so squeezed myself into a too-small wetsuit we had in the house and went in. And it all came back to me, just why I’d loved swimming so much in the sea when I was little. It IS cold, though less so with the wetsuit. Freezing, at times. But that feeling passes after sixty seconds or so, and then it’s beautiful. The sea in Iona is the clearest I’ve ever swum in, and swimming in it is pure joy. I remembered just how free swimming in the sea makes you feel.

When we got back to Edinburgh, I decided I’d go along with Colin on Sunday mornings to swim with the Wild Ones at Portobello. By this time, I’d invested in a swimsuit, as I hadn’t enjoyed the feeling of wearing a wetsuit in the water – too buoyant, and too bulky. I told Colin I’d go with him until the end of summer. Each time we went in I got a little braver and stayed in for longer.

And during that time, my amazing, patient, husband taught me to swim. Really swim, with my head under water and coming up for breaths, not the head above water jerky breast stroke I’d been doing until then. At first, it was a struggle to get used to the technique. I hadn’t understood before, watching others swim, that you exhale under water, rather than holding your breath, then come up to inhale.

The first time I managed to swim and come up for air five times I felt like a swimming champion. Then ten times, then twenty, then I stopped counting. I learned how to make my body straighter in the water, keep my face down looking at the bottom, reach out with my arms and scoop the water back till my hand was grazing the top of my thigh, and stop kicking my legs up and down so frenetically.

And all the while, the seasons were changing, and it was October, then November, then December, and I was still swimming. I loved the way swimming made me feel. I’d be nervous beforehand, afraid that THIS would be the time that I wouldn’t be able to do it, that I’d found my limit and that it would just be too cold. But I’d always get in, eventually, and I’d yelp and squeak and faff about before fully immersing myself, and I’d swim.

By December, I would only swim a few strokes in the 7 degree water, but the pride I felt at having swum in the sea in December carried me through the whole day. The exhilaration you feel after a swim in the sea – even a short one – is better than any drug. You feel like a hero. People look at you as if you’re mad, but you know better. The endorphins are rushing round your body as you dry yourself with a towel, your fingers frozen as you fumble to do up your bra and pull up your leggings. And it feels amazing.

And in the sea itself, all your problems and worries really do just disappear. It’s the most mindful activity I can think of. There’s no space in your head to think about anything other than this moment, the feel of the cold water on your skin, the psyching yourself up to lower your chest in, then your shoulders, then your arms and hands. You leave your troubles on the shore, and when you come out again, they always seem to have gotten a little smaller.

Since then, I’ve swum in many places around Scotland, and the UK. Up in Durness on the north coast of Scotland was the coldest, swimming in under 5 degrees at the top of the world. The Serpentine Lido in London was the first time I’d swum without Colin, my coach and support blanket. That felt really brave. Off the coast of Wales this summer, the waves toppling me back over every time I tried to stand up, so I just swam through them. And this summer at Wardie Bay, our local beach, swimming out to the white buoy with Colin, a rite of passage for any Wardie swimmer and my personal goal for 2020.

When swimming in the sea at New Year, fancy dress is obligatory at Wardie Bay.

I love swimming in the open water. It makes me feel strong, and brave, and happy, and so connected to nature and when Colin and I swim together, so connected to each other. Sometimes there are mornings when you have to really talk yourself into it, the thought of getting out of your warm bed into the freezing sea seems like madness. But you never regret a swim. And you’ll never regret taking up swimming – I only wish I’d done it sooner.

If you’re interested in being coached by Colin, you can visit his coaching website here.

Read his guide to wild swimming in Edinburgh here

And his need to know guide to wild swimming is here.

November 3, 2020November 9, 2020

The Edinburgh wild swimming guide

Edinburgh is most famous for its castle, festivals, tourism and tartanry, but many well travelled folk might be surprised to know that it’s also a superb destination for wild swimming.

Over here on the east coast of Scotland, we’re spoiled for choice. Most residents won’t have to travel too far (I’d say 30 mins on bike or in car) to get to a decent swimming location. For most of us, it’s even less.

There are two main areas: the coastal beaches at Wardie Bay and Portobello, and a series of reservoirs in the Pentland Hills, which overlook the capital from the south and south west.

There are other choices, too, and you’ll find mention of them below, but first we’ll point our goggles in the direction of Edinburgh’s most famous outdoor swimming venue, Portobello Beach.

Edinburgh wild swimming at Portobello — Swimmers at Portobello. Sometimes they dress up to go for a swim.

Portobello Beach

Portobello has been Edinburgh’s go-to swimming destination for decades! There was once an outdoor pool here, but even since it was filled in and concreted over, people still dipped in the sea. But it was the formation of The Wild Ones Facebook group in 2011 that gave wild swimming in Edinburgh a fresh impetus.

This long stretch of sandy beach is broken up every 250 metres (roughly) by wooden groynes that stretch into the sea, and keep the sand in place. Most people start their swim outside Portobello Swim Centre, getting changed at the nearby wooden groyne.

Rather than swimming out, you tend to swim down the shore and back, the groynes proving a welcome way to measure distance.

Another fairly popular spot to get in is Joppa, which is a better spot when the beach gets really busy. Not so much of a problem during winter!

But it doesn’t really matter where you go as the area is perfect for swimming, having been awarded designated bathing water status, meaning its water quality is regularly monitored.

At low tide, you’ll have to walk very far out to be in deep water, and most people don’t. At high tide however, the beach does drop quite quickly so you’re likely to out of your depth even if you’re relatively close to the shore.

You will often see swimmers here at most times of days, and until Covid hit, Sunday mornings at 9.30am was the regular meeting time, although many people arrange swims through the Facebook group or privately.

Of course, travel further east and you’ll cross many other lovely beaches further along the coast. Fisherrow, Musselburgh, Longniddry, Gullane, Seacliff, Yellow Craigs, Tyninghame, Belhaven Beach. Most of them within an hour’s drive from Edinburgh, a few accessible by train, and all accessible by a lovely, albeit long, cycle.

Wardie Bay

Heading in the other direction, a few miles west along the coast from Portobello, past the historic borough of Leith and the picturesque Newhaven Harbour, you’ll get to Wardie Bay, a wee wild and urban beach that is massively different in character to the resort-likeness of Portobello.

Like Portobello, it’s all sand underfoot and is swimmable at all tides and most conditions. The shelf drops off moderately sharply at high tide, so you’ll be out of your depth fairly quickly. At low tide you can be walking for 100m out and still in your depth.

Due to its popularity, it also has its own dedicated Facebook group, the Wardie Bay Wild Ones and in recent times there has been a concerted effort by the local community and beach users to keep Wardie Bay clean and get it awarded designated bathing status.

Edinburgh wild swimming at Wardie Bay — Wardie Bay

You’ll often see swimmers down here, getting changed on either side of the beach, and along it on the grass. Not quite a machair, but we can pretend.

You’ve probably three options for a swim:

Out round the buoys that are dotted to the east of the breakwater wall – the nearest ones (a yellow and pale pink one are about 250-350 metres away at high tide). The further orange one is about 650-700 metres away. There’s a yellow buoy further out but you really need to watch if going out that far as you’re crossing into the line of traffic. Not recommended.

Another nice swim is along the shoreline to the tower that sticks out about 650 metres from the beach, apron halfway to Newhaven Harbour. Best go at mid or high tide, and if you go when there’s a flood tide (coming in) you’ll get an assist on the way back.

But for many people, criss-crossing the bay is enough and you’ll often see people going in for a dip and doing lengths of the bay from the breakwater wall to the rocks that reach out on the other side of the sand.

A few words of warning. While the tidal pull here is mild, it is noticeable. Bear that in mind if you’re swimming out round the buoys and coming back on an ebb tide (tide going out). It’s not something to be overly concerned about, but if it catches you by surprise that could cause a bit of anxiety in you or perhaps less experienced swimmers.

At high tide, with a big swell and crashing waves, it’s dangerous and even the strongest swimmers should think carefully about going in.

I always keep a good 50metres from the wall. It’s used by fisherman and I don’t want to go near their lines.

On hot calm weather a jet skier or two may approach. They’ve been warned that there’s swimmers in the water, but they still do it. Any sounds of the jet skier, I would recommend swimming towards the wall or getting out.

Most other boats will keep beyond the buoys but you do need to remain aware at all times while swimming, listening and looking out for yachts and fishing boats who very occasionally do come within the buoys.

Cramond Beach

Westwards along the shore from Wardie Bay is Cramond Beach.

Folk do swim here, and I’ve enjoyed it a couple of times, but the general consensus is that the River Almond that flows into it is a bit manky and that it is maybe ill advised. The times I’ve gone in, I’ve entered by the beach by the stone fish down from the Cramond flag pole and walkway to Cramond Island.

I’d love to do a swim from Cramond Isle to the mainland sometime.

You can only really swim here at high tide, but do be mindful of the tidal current here. Another risk – and I’m not sure how serious it is – is that the bed towards Cramond Isle can be quite soft and sucky. I can’t for a moment imagine anyone getting stuck in it, but still, worth mentioning.

Pentland Reservoirs

Threipmuir is an easy one, and popular with beginners, families, experienced swimmers and triathleses. Big enough to get some distance in, it’s also very shallow in places so if you can stand the mu round your ankles then it’s fine to stand up in.

Access at the nearby car park, or the one at Harlaw or cycle, though you’ll have to negotiate a big ascent!

Although there’re hills around it, it’s wide open and flat and does get exposed to wind and get choppy, which is good fun!

Most people get changed near the bench at the top end or on a beach nearer the wall. Keep well clear of these. I don’t know the optimum distance to keep away from gates (50 metres minimum) but I don’t go past the spit of land that sticks out.

Torduff Reservoir lies to the south west of Edinburgh, just off the bypass. I’d say this is for experienced swimmers only. Deep, cold, and only two entry points at either end, it’s not one for swimmers who aren’t comfortable with swimming a few km in cold water. Park at the Bonaly Car Park (or cycle) and walk over. Get in on the slope on the other side of the towers.

These sluice gates are closed and only opened twice a year, but I still wouldn’t go near them, although people do jump off them.

Bonaly and Harlaw reservoirs tend to be busy with fishermen. I tend to avoid.

Gladhouse Reservoir

Further afield, Gladhouse Reservoir, south of Edinburgh and out past Dalkeith is a joy to swim in.

Parking is a bit of a pain since a new fence was erected, but if you’re careful and canny you can usually find somewhere to park up, even on very busy days. Most people will access via the north-western edge where beautiful Scots pine overlook a few rocky or gravel beaches.

The two islands give good loops to swim around, and the whole circuit is rough 5k, an excellent training ground for those of you wanting to push the distance. But it’s a lovely place to go for a quiet (apart from high summer) dip!

Beware, while it gets very warm in the summer, it can get brutally cold in the winter. It’s where many swimmers go to crack the ice!

Fife

As well as the beaches along the Lothian Coast, you’re also not far away from the likes of the lifeguarded Silver Sands beach at Aberdour, Burntisland Beach, or the water centre at Lochore, all in Fife.

Water of Leith

And for the adventurous, there are some pools in the Water of Leith that are worth a wee explore! I know a couple of swimmers who’ve spent time discovering these spots and share their knowledge reluctantly … so you’ll just have to trust me on this one, or go find them yourself!

Places to Avoid!

Then there are a few places where I personally wouldn’t recommend swimming. People have in the past enquired about Duddingston Loch, the wee lochs on Arthur’s seat. These are ripe in bird droppings and I wouldn’t even think about it. Nor would I go near the aforementioned Almond River. I’ve seen excrement flow in here from the wee burn that comes out from the airport; a shocking and depressing indication of the contempt that larger organisations have for our coasts and waterways.

Spoilt for choice

We really are spolit for choice for places to wild swim in and around Edinburgh. As well as the city beaches and nearby reservoirs, we also have cracking swimming venues in East Lothian and Fife, and I haven’t even gotten on to West Lothian!

It’s one of the reasons why Edinburgh wild swimming has exploded in recent years, and why there are now several coaches in the area, including myself, supporting swimmers with their swimming, safety and confidence.

To read more on open water swimming, including what to wear and what to bring, see my Guide to Open Water Swimming.

July 21, 2020December 2, 2020

Camping in Shieldaig – our first trip in our van Irene!

The July weekend we spent camping in Shieldaig was extra special as it was so long awaited. We timed the purchase of our campervan a little badly, not that we could have known this at the time back in the pre Covid days of 2020 January! It took a few weeks for the van to be converted, so by the time it was ready it coincided almost immediately with lockdown and we were only able to enjoy a couple of days out in it before leaving it to sit forlornly outside our house. In that time we decided to name her Irene, after Colin’s grandma who sadly died last year.

Once it was announced that we could go somewhere with Irene, we knew we wanted to head north west for the fresh clean air of the Highlands. We’d never visited Shieldaig before, a tiny village on the north west Highland coast, and the newly renovated campsite there overlooking the sea looked perfect.

Shieldaig is well known for Shieldaig Island a short distance from the shore, on which a pair of newly reintroduced to Scotland white tailed eagles live with their chicks. We didn’t see the eagles, but the island is a popular spot for local swimmers and kayakers to circle around. We also spotted the local war monument, which shows amongst the village men who lost their lives in both wars the name of a local Shieldaig woman – newly wed Margaret McKenzie – who tragically died aboard the Lusitania in 1915.

There’s a well stocked village shop and two restaurants that overlook the shore, all two minutes walk of the well appointed campsite. The Shieldaig Coastal Kitchen has a roof terrace overlooking the bay, though the menu is meat and fish heavy with very little for vegans and vegetarians. The campsite owners, locals Ruairidh and Hazel, are very friendly and accommodating and were really helpful and responsive in the run up to our trip. The hard standing electric pitches had grass next to them for a pup tent, and there are also grass pitches and two glamping cabins, as well as showers, toilets and a laundry and washing up room.

There are plenty of things to do in the surrounding area. We decided to drive to Skye, which is around an hour away over the Skye Bridge. Colin used to live in Skye and claims partial responsibility for the waiving of the bridge toll after he protested paying it back in the nineties. His 2020 wife and children were very grateful for his teenage protest! We headed to Glenbrittle to swim in the fairy pools, then visited the lovely capital of Portree, where we had some of the best chippy chips ever at the small harbour – fried in vegetable oil and just the right combination of greasy and crispy.

Crossing the stepping stones on the way to the Fairy Pool. Wear sturdy shoes – don’t be like me who ended up with soaking wet Converse!

Closer to Shieldaig, there are the Torridon Hills of Beinn Alligin, Sgurr Mhor, Liathach and Beinn Eighe which vary in difficulty, as well as countless hill and shore walks for all abilities. To the south is the town of Applecross, which can be reached on one of the most breathtaking drives in the country; with its tight bends and spectacular views, it’s the steepest road in the UK. You can also go for a swim in the clear waters off Shieldaig shore if you want a morning pick me up – the village and shore are two minute’s walk from the campsite. Shieldaig is also a great place to stop for those touring the North Coast 500. If you’re lucky you might spot a red deer, and we saw a baby red squirrel as well as fields of iconic Highland cows.

The view from the campsite – waking up to this was pretty unbeatable!

As our trip camping in Shieldaig was our first outing in our van, it was definitely a learning experience. I expected to forget more things than we actually did – which were a scourer for the dishes and a small dustpan and brush for the van floor. The van was so comfortable to sleep in, and the view that we woke up to each morning was breathtaking, despite the typically Highland weather – when you’re holidaying in the west of Scotland, good weather is a bonus but never something to be relied upon, so pack good shoes and a waterproof coat! I really recommend this lovely tranquil place at the edge of Scotland for those who want to disconnect from all the noise and reconnect with nature. You won’t want to leave, and we will definitely be back.

https://www.shieldaigcampingandcabins.co.uk/

May 23, 2020May 31, 2020

Thinking about open water swimming? Here’s some advice before you take the plunge!

With the Coronavirus lockdown undergoing a phased relaxation across the UK, many outdoor swimmers are at last returning to the open water. Some will be approaching the sport for the first time, no doubt enticed by the excitement generated in the sport over the past couple of years, from Ross Edgley’s epic Great British Swim to the publication and phenomenal success of the bestselling book Taking the Plunge, by Anna Deacon and Vicky Allan, as well as various TV, radio and magazine mentions…

I don’t know Ross, but Anna and Vicky are both good friends, and I was delighted to be asked to contribute a section providing safety and swimming advice for their beautiful book, a must-have for any wild swimmer! (Widely available online!) Below is an edited version of that section that I hope will be useful to anyone new to open water swimming this summer.

Swimming Kit

Alongside a safe body of water, the only thing you truly need to go open water swimming is yourself. A costume is a good idea so as not to scare the local wildlife, and some goggles so you can see the murk below better. You should also equip yourself with a bright-coloured cap to keep your head warm, and to make you more visible. You have a few options – silicon, latex or neoprene – although plenty of people like to keep their heads above water and wear a wooly hat! But apart from these three essentials, almost everything else you’ll need is for after your swim.

After-swim Kit

Start with a towel. You want something big enough to wrap around you and to change under. Some people go for the micro-fleece beach towels, but I’m not a fan. My wife prefers a poncho-type towel (Dry Robe is the main brand) to change under. My preference is for a compact and easy drying Hamman towel.

You also want loose, warm clothes to quickly and easily throw on as soon as you’re dry, starting with a T-shirt. Choose clothes you can chuck on without any faff: your fingers might be numb, you might have the judders, and your skin might be all sticky because it’s cold and fresh out of the water. After a swim I often put on two T-shirts, a baggy base layer, a jumper, a thick shirt, and a hoodie. Thick socks (loose!) are also recommended. And a wooly hat. Do not forget the hat! Basically, you’re dressing for the mountains!

It’s a good idea to have your clothes handy and laid out before you go in the water. Once out, the trick is to get dressed as quick as you can so you can get moving to help your body warm up again. Your core temperature will drop a degree or three once you’re out of the water as the cold layer of blood below your skin is recirculated around your body, causing a condition called Afterdrop (other people call it the judders; the medical term is peripheral vasoconstriction). Assuming you’ve changed into warm clothes and you’re moving about, it’s not particularly serious; just don’t operate any heavy machinery. It generally wears off after about 20 minutes or so but you might get a wee cold shudder some hours later!

Another useful bit of kit is something to stand on, whether that’s flip flops, crocs, or a square of a foam sleeping mat. This keeps your feet off the cold or wet ground and stops the heat seeping out from under you.

And finally, take a flask containing a hot drink (but not scalding). It’s a superb way to warm up afterwards; just be careful if you’re shaking from the judders.

Pre-swim essentials

I’ve never met anyone who didn’t feel better after a swim. Though many of us arrive at the water’s edge feeling apprehensive, depressed, hungover, stressed or tired. What motivates us is knowing that during and after our swim we will feel fantastic. And so will you. Hold on to that positive thought and don’t let go!

Getting in

Of course it’s the actual getting in that can be the hardest thing about open water swimming – both mentally and physically – but there are ways to make it easier for yourself.

I prefer to dive or jump in for that exhilarating cold water blast, but it’s not for everybody, and not for anyone new to cold water swimming. Walking in is the safer option, though it’s murder on your soles if across pebbles or rocks. (Swim socks are a good idea in this case.)

If you do walk in, those first few seconds around your ankles can be a wee bit nippy. You’ll wonder how you can keep going and want to claw back out. But keep going! Tell yourself the water is warm. It does get easier, and once your calves, knees, thighs are in things start settling down. Maybe stop, pause, count to 20, and then continue past your waist.

Another good tip is to get your hands in as soon as possible. Use them to splash some water on your chest, your face, your back and especially the back of your neck as you’re walking in. This distracts from the water around your legs or abdomen, but it also prepares you physiologically for going in, reducing the effects of cold water shock and spreading the cold sensation around your body, and thereby lessening it.

Cold Water Shock

Cold water shock is that thing you get when you gasp for breath and your muscles contract. It can make people panicky, but it’s also quite exciting. Swear, shout, sing, shriek if it helps; you won’t be the first! Your adrenaline is kicking in. Focus on breathing. Let your body settle into the cold by rolling on to your back. Kick your legs hard. Scull for a bit. As your body and mind calm, focus on controlled and calm exhalations. And then remind yourself of how unbelievable lucky (and brave!) you are to be in this gorgeous sea, loch, or river. Look up and around at the big sky surrounding you, and the beautiful landscape reaching round you like a big pair of arms. Feel blessed to be in this space, because very, very few people will ever experience this. And be proud of yourself for getting this far!

Getting the face in

Once you’re happy enough in the water it’s time to get your face in and start swimming. For me that’s the hardest part especially when the water’s extremely cold. The swimming cap helps a lot. You need it for visibility but also because it reduces the brainfreeze. Pull it down over your ears and down over forehead to just above your eyes. Wearing two will make a massive difference, too (try latex on top of silicon here).

If getting your face in is a struggle, try the following: swim water polo drill or breast stroke and dip your head in during every other stroke, ensuring you exhale fully to maintain control of your breathing. Another strategy is to submerge your whole head a few times, especially submerging the back of your head and neck. This balances out the coldness front and back and helps you acclimatise. It can be painful initially, but the more you do it, the easier it gets. Some people don’t find it difficult at all – fingers crossed that’s you!

Cold Water Swimming

Of course, water conditions vary like the weather, and wind, current, tide will all affect the water, which will obviously impact your stroke.

It’s a good idea to practise different freestyle techniques when in the pool (this was written while pools were open!). Short, faster strokes with a high recovery and an early entry for when it’s very choppy and the swell is lifting you up and down. Or longer stokes and an extended glides for when the water’s dead calm.

It’s important you can do bilateral breathing. While most times you’ll be able to breathe when and where you want, you’ll likely be faced with swims where you have to be able to swim on only the right or left sides, especially if sea swimming. Like your freestyle stroke itself, the key is being able to adapt. Also, without lane ropes you may veer in one direction: bilateral breathing helps reduce this.

Swimming direct into the chop can be quite challenging – and immensely fun! – but it’s sometimes tricky to avoid getting a face full of water. Try to pierce each wave, rather than fight over them. If side on to the waves, just try to roll with it. Enjoy the sensation! But be mindful of how it can affect where you’re going.

Sighting

Practise and have an awareness of how to sight. There are no lane ropes in the wild or open water, so use landmarks to help you. Tall trees, church spires, mountains, buoys, bright coloured buildings, and so on. Always know which direction you’re swimming in.

My advice would be to stick close to shore and be very mindful or wind direction and currents.

As for sighting technique, one common way is to lift your eyes just above the water immediately prior to taking a breath, and then rotating your head as you take a breath as part of the same movement. Another method is to lift your head as your arm goes into the water and stretches out in front of you. Do this regularly (perhaps every fourth of fifth breath), and always have an awareness of how the water flow is directing you.

One last piece of advice on open water swimming

Be safe and don’t swim alone. While there’s something incredibly compelling, liberating and exciting about swimming solo, my advice is that it should only be attempted by the most experienced swimmers, and even then it should be only undertaken with sincere consideration. In general, don’t swim alone. Fine if that other person is watching from the shore.

And while there’s a general philosophy of “swim at your own risk”, please bear in mind that should you ever get in to trouble, it’s likely you’ll endanger someone else should they try to aid you. This might be professionals such as the Coastguard, RNLI or trained lifeguards, but it could also be other swimmers or water users or simply passers-by. You might be fine with that level of risk, but it may not be what they signed up for …

Two final words of advice on open water swimming

Enjoy it!

For more on open water swimming and to enquire about coaching, visit ScottishSwimmer.com or contact us direct here!

Main image: Stephen MacIntyre