Four Walks Around Edinburgh

Like everyone else in the UK and further afield, we’ve been very restricted about where we can go in recent months. And like most people, we’ve become a little bit tired of the same old walks and have been making an effort to discover new places to go to change it up a bit. Here are four walks in nature around Edinburgh, from ascending an extinct volcano,: stunning lochs; beautiful clear rivers, and even some modern art along the way.

They’re also a lovely way to enjoy Edinburgh if you’re visiting later on in the year.

Water of Leith

The Water of Leith walk and cycleway runs for twelve miles through the heart of Edinburgh.

A favourite route starts at the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art. From the car park behind the Modern One building, take the steps down to a little bridge over the Water of Leith. There you’ll see one of Anthony Gormley’s famous 6 Times Installations – life size casts of the artist’s body – in the water. From here, keep the river on your left until you reach a bridge that takes you over to the other bank and through picture-postcard Dean Village with its houses dating back to the 17th century. Carry on up the river until you reach Stockbridge, where you can step back into the city, or retrace your steps back to the Gallery along the river.

Getting there – You can walk to the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art from the city centre, or catch bus 37 from South Bridge and get off at the Gallery.

6 Times by Anthony Gormley in the Water of Leith

Pentlands Regional Park at Flotterstone

The Pentlands Regional Park covers a huge area with several walks, but this one is particularly scenic – rolling hills, rivers, reservoirs, and even an ancient Roman fort!

Fields of sheep and turnips on the way to the reservoir on a beautiful February day

Start at Flotterstone car park, which lies just south of the city bypass. There’s a cafe and loo there should you need them. Follow the Glencorse burn along a fairly flat road for twenty minutes until you reach the picturesque reservoir with a wooded island in its centre and drowned chapel that you can sometimes see if it’s been very dry. Take the right path (signposted) for Glencorse View and Castle Law. This path gives you amazing views over the reservoir. From there, you can continue along to Castle Law farm and detour to see the Roman fort – a detailed guide to the walk is here.

Getting there – by car to the Flotterstone Inn EH26 0PP, or catch the 102 bus from Edinburgh bus station towards Dumfries and get off at the Flotterstone Inn.

Harlaw Reservoir

The Harlaw reservoir walk also takes in the Pentlands Regional Park from the other side. Start this walk at the Harlaw Visitor Centre car park .

Harlaw Reservoir

This is a lovely walk around Harlaw Reservoir that we love doing all year round – parts of it take you through woods that are filled with ditches that the kids have fun jumping across (though you can walk round them if you prefer!) It’s also possible to swim in the reservoir, though watch out for people fishing.

Start the walk at the Harlaw House car park, with its short walk along to Harlaw House. Harlaw House was originally built as a waterkeeper’s cottage after the reservoir was built in 1848, and is now a visitor information centre. On the way, there’s a beautiful gated Wildlife Garden, which a lovely place to sit and have a picnic. From there, you can choose whether to take a clockwise or anti-clockwise loop round the reservoir. Walk through the shaded woods and jump across the ditches, enjoy the views of the Pentlands hills from the path, or follow the banks of the reservoir.

Getting there – By car to Harlaw House EH14 7AS, or by bus 44 from Edinburgh to Balerno.

Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat

You can’t have a guide to walks in Edinburgh without including Arthur’s Seat. We love to walk up it on Christmas Eve, as a way of tiring the kids out, but it’s spectacular all through the year. Watching the sun rise from the top is an essential Edinburgh experience, and the views over the city and the Forth from this extinct volcano are breathtaking.

There are various routes up to the top of Arthur’s Seat. This one is of moderate difficulty – there are steeper routes, but we like this one as it’s manageable for the kids. Start at the Holyrood Palace car park and follow the red paved path. You’ll come to a corner – take the left path which heads towards the ruins of St Anthony’s Chapel. From there you can follow the line of cliffs up to the peak, or the path along the bottom of the cliffs. They both lead to the top. There are some quite steep climbs on this walk, but the views from the summit will reward your effort.

You can find more detail about routes up Arthur’s Seat here.

Getting there – Walk to the bottom of the Royal Mile towards the Scottish Parliament – you’ll see the foot of Arthur’s Seat once you turn the corner from the Royal Mile.

If you like these walks and want to go further afield, try the De’ils Cauldron Walk in Comrie for waterfalls and spectacular views.

Vegan Coconut Rice with Miso Tofu and Pickled Veg, with Peanut Chilli Broccoli

This vegan coconut rice is a little time consuming to make, in that involves some prep in the days before you make it with the preparation of the tofu and pickled veg. And it’s definitely not the lightest of meals as it’s full of rich flavours and textures. But it’s so worth it! Once you’ve prepped the tofu and veg, it’s very easy to throw together.

Makes 4 medium bowls.

For the rice, tofu and veg

Ingredients

1 block firm tofu

500 g brown rice

3 teaspoons brown miso paste

2 cans coconut milk

1 teaspoon ginger

Juice of half a lemon

Salt

Half a cucumber

1 carrot

3 radishes

4 oz rice vinegar

2 oz water

2 tbsp sesame oil

Method

First press and marinade the tofu. For best results, do this 48-24 hours before you make this meal – the longer you press and marinade the tofu, the better the flavour. Either use a tofu press or wrap the tofu in a tea towel, put it in a sieve over a bowl and lay some heavy books on top of it.

Make the tofu marinade. Dissolve a teaspoon and a half of brown miso paste in 14 oz boiling water. Add it to a can of coconut milk, a teaspoon of grated ginger, the juice of half a lemon and a pinch of salt.

Once the tofu has been pressed for at least two hours, chop it into cubes and add it to the marinade, in a bowl or airtight container. Refrigerate until you’re ready to make the rice – the longer the better for the tofu to absorb flavour.

Now make the pickled veg. Cut the carrot and cucumber into matchsticks and thinly slice the radish. Heat the rice vinegar, water and a teaspoon of salt in the microwave for 30 seconds and pour over the veg. Store in a jar or airtight tupperware and refrigerate.

To make the rice, weigh out 500g brown rice and rinse. Add to a pan with 1 litre water and a pinch of salt and bring to the boil over a medium heat.

At the same time, dissolve one and half teaspoons miso paste in 14 oz boiling water.

While the rice is cooking, heat 2 tbsp sesame oil over a medium heat. Add the tofu cubes and slowly adding the marinade, fry until the cubes are golden.

When the rice is cooked, add the can of coconut milk and miso water and stir it through the rice.

Serve the rice in a bowl and top with the tofu and the pickled veg.

For the peanut broccoli

Ingredients

125g peanuts

125 g breadcrumbs

Pinch chilli flakes

200g tenderstem broccoli

2 tbsp sesame oil

Method

Steam the broccoli for five minutes till cooked. Toss in a tablespoon of sesame oil and a little salt.

Crush the peanuts, either in a plastic bag with a rolling pin or a mortar and pestle.

Heat the sesame oil over a medium heat. Add the chilli, breadcrumbs and peanuts and cook for 2 minutes till the breadcrumbs are golden.

Toss the broccoli in the peanut mixture and serve!

If you liked this recipe, try –

Vegan Potato and Spinach Pakora Sandwich

Vegan Japanese Mushrooms and Greens

Vegan Cheese and Spinach Muffins with Sour Cream

In my pre-vegan days, I used to make cheese muffins all the time for parties, weekends and just-because-I’m-hungry days. They were so dairy heavy that I thought I’d never be able to match them with a vegan version until I made these! This vegan cheese and spinach muffins recipe makes about 16 so plenty for everyone to get tucked into as they didn’t last the day in our house!

For the vegan cheese and spinach muffins;

Ingredients

300g shredded spinach, immersed in boiling water for a couple of minutes to soften

400g self raising flour

4 tbsp nutritional yeast

1/2 tsp Dijon mustard

325ml plant milk

50ml sunflower oil

Flax egg for binding – this is 1 tbsp flaxseed plus 3 tbsp water, chilled in the fridge for 10/20 minutes

100g grated cheese, I used Applewood smoked

1 tsp salt

Method

In one bowl, mix together the flour, nutritional yeast and salt.

In another bowl, mix together the oil, plant milk, and mustard.

Combine the two bowls of wet and dry ingredients and add in the cheese and spinach. Spoon the mixture into muffin tins and bake for 30-40 minutes at 175 degrees. The bottoms can take a bit longer to cook, so check that they’re firm-ish before removing from the muffin tin – they do firm up once left for half an hour or so, but you don’t want them too soggy!

Sour cream

Ingredients

200g raw cashews, soaked overnight

160 ml water

Juice of 1 lemon

Teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

Teaspoon salt

Method

Very simple – just put all the ingredients together and blend!

Serve the vegan cheese and spinach muffins cut in half with the sour cream.

If you like these, try our cheesy vegan puff pastry bites.

Vegan Potato and Spinach Pakora Sandwich

This vegan potato and spinach pakora sandwich definitely isn’t the healthiest vegan meal out there, though it does contain spinach which is a great source of a number of vitamins, magnesium and iron. I made this after a bike ride in the freezing January Edinburgh winter, and it was exactly what I needed to warm me up. It’s a bit of a messy fiddly sandwich to make as it’s battered, but worth the effort.

Ingredients

Batter

250g chickpea (gram) flour

1/2 tsp red chilli powder

175 ml plant milk

1/2 tsp cumin

1/2 tsp fresh coriander

Tsp salt

Pinch bicarbonate of soda

Filling

300g new potatoes, peeled, boiled and riced or grated

1/2 tsp red chilli powder

1/2 tsp cumin

3 tbsp chopped spinach

2 tbsp chopped mint

1 tsp salt

1 lime

Plus 6 slices of white bread.

And handful of spring onions to serve.

Method

First make the filling by combining the potatoes, chilli, cumin, spinach, mint ,salt and lime.

Next ,make the batter by putting all of the batter ingredients into a food processor. You can mix by hand in a bowl too, but a food processor ensures a better distribution of the ingredients. The batter should be the consistency of runny cream – add more water if it isn’t.

Heat some oil on a medium heat in frying pan. Dip one slice of white bread in the batter, covering both sides, and drop in the pan.

Fry on both sides till golden, then press filling onto one side of the bread.

Repeat with another slice of bread – cover in batter, fry on both sides, then add filling.

Press the two slices of bread, topped with filling, into a sandwich, and fry for a further two minutes.

Cut in half and eat with spring onions on the side!

If you like this, try our vegan cheese and spinach muffins with sour cream recipe.

Vegan turmeric pasta

Turmeric is a brilliant herb to try to incorporate in your diet. Its health benefits include the potential to prevent heart disease, Alzheimer’s and cancer, and its anti-inflammatory properties can also help with arthritis. It adds an earthy taste and beautiful golden colour to food. This vegan turmeric pasta is really easy to make using jarred turmeric, though you can use fresh too if you can get hold of it.

Vegan turmeric pasta – sunshine in a bowl.

Ingredients

250g pak choi, or 2 pak choi heads and bulbs

I white onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, diced

5 tbsp nutritional yeast

100g cashew nuts, soaked overnight or for a few hours in a bowl of water

220 ml plant milk

2 teaspoons ground turmeric or grated fresh turmeric

Salt and pepper to season

300g pasta of your choice – makes 4 small bowls or two large bowls

Method

  1. Cook the pasta to your taste, drain and leave to the side.
  2. Add some olive oil to a pan. Fry the onions and garlic over a medium heat until soft.
  3. Remove the onions and garlic from the pan and replace with the chopped pak choi, again frying over a medium heat.
  4. Add the cashews to the onion and garlic in a blender, along with the nutritional yeast, plant milk, turmeric, salt and pepper. Blend to a creamy sauce.
  5. Add the pasta and sauce to a large wok or pan and combine over a medium heat for a couple of minutes. Add the pak choi and serve!

If you like this, try our Vegan Pancake with Sour Cream and Avocado

Vegan Baklava

After trying Nora and Nama’s vegan baklava in Camden Market a while back, I’ve been obsessed with this sticky delicious Turkish pudding! Here’s my vegan version.

Ingredients

200g agave nectar

200 g caster or granulated sugar

150g walnuts

150g pistachios

150g almonds

Juice of 1 lemon

24 sheets filo pastry – about one pack.

6 tbsp coconut oil or dairy free butter.

100g brown sugar.

180g plant milk

Tsp salt

Method

Put the milk, pistachios, almonds, walnuts, salt and brown sugar in the blender to make a gritty paste with 3 tbsp warm water.

Melt 6 tbsp butter or coconut oil in the microwave or on the hob.

Spread out eight sheets of filo pastry in a baking tray, lining the base with the melted butter or oil, and lining every two sheets lightly with the oil or butter. Spread the eighth sheet with the pistachio, almond and walnut paste.

Repeat with eight more sheets, topping with the paste and then eight more sheets. Spread the oil or butter on the top sheet and score it in a diamond shape with a knife – see picture above.

Bake for 40 minutes at 180 C.

While the baklava is baking, 10 minutes before taking it out of the oven melt the granulated sugar, lemon juice, plant milk and agave nectar over a low heat and simmer.

Pour this mixture over the baklava once it’s out of the oven, and serve in squares with tea or hot chocolate!

If you like this recipe, try our Vegan Coconut and Apple Breakfast Bake.

Sea buckthorn – one of nature’s lesser known super heroes

Sea buckthorn berries grow in abundance at Gullane beach, where we often go swimming. I’d noticed the berries before, but hadn’t really paid them much mind. That was until our last visit, when I got chatting to a lovely lady who was snipping them into a basket. She told me that they contain many times the amount of vitamin C as your average orange and that she was going to make them into a tonic that could be taken daily.

I was intrigued and used Colin’s pen knife to cut a few sprigs for myself. When I got home, on the lady’s advice, I put them in the freezer for 24 hours to take away the astringency and then made them into a juice. You can also use the berries to make jams, powders, tonics and in baking.

Reading more about sea buckthorn, I learned that it has a number of health benefits. As well as being packed with vitamin C, it’s full of potassium, magnesium, calcium and iron. It’s also thought to be good for heart health, and for lowering blood pressure and cholesterol in some cases.

Here’s how I made the juice –

  1. Add equal quantities of blueberries and sea buckthorn, which has been frozen and de-thorned, to your juicer.
  2. Add the same amount of water as fruit to the juicer – so I used 1/2 cup blueberries, 1/2 cup sea buckthorn berries, and 1 cup water.
  3. Add a teaspoon of maple syrup and blend!

Vegan coconut and vanilla face and body scrub

This totally vegan coconut and vanilla face and body scrub has to be one of the nicest things I’ve ever put on my face. My skin felt so soft and smooth afterwards and it smells AMAZING – that’s because it actually is good enough to eat!

The good news is that it’s the easiest thing ever to make. You only need three ingredients, plus a container – I used an old body scrub container but you can use a small plastic tupperware if you don’t have any old packaging.

Ingredients

1 cup coconut oil, melted

2 cups coconut sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

Method

Melt the coconut oil in the microwave or over a low heat on the hob and combine with the sugar and vanilla.

Mix it up with a little warm water, apply to face and body, massage in and rinse off!

Camping Adventures in Ardnamurchan

We spent a wonderful weekend this September camping in Ardnamurchan in the western Scottish Highlands. I’ve lived in Scotland most of my life, and consider myself to be fairly well travelled in my own country – but had never visited the Ardnamurchan peninsula until last weekend. All I really knew about it was that there was a lighthouse there, a distillery where Colin has a cask of whisky, and that it was very remote.

We set off one Friday in September to spend two nights with family at the Ardnamurchan Campsite , situated just outside the pretty, remote village of Kilchoan

From Edinburgh, right on the other side of Scotland, it took us five hours to get to the campsite. Once you get off the motorway at Stirling, the journey is just a joy, with incredible scenery as you drive through the Trossachs and the lonely moors of Glencoe within the shadow of Buchaille Etive Mor. We stopped at the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum, where you can go to the loo and buy some fresh food in the cafe or some gifts and outdoor clothes if you feel inclined! There’s also a great cafe across the road at the Real Food Cafe – my vegan chickpea curry with chips was delicious, and you can order in advance on their website and pick the food up in the car park. Or, ten minutes on there are some incredible places to stop at Glencoe if you fancy eating your takeaway in one of the most scenic and iconic places in Scotland!

We stopped again at Ardgour for the five minute car ferry journey to Corran on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula, then on to the single track winding road to the campsite. The views of mountains, lochs and beaches are breathtaking, but do pack a travel sickness pill for anyone who suffers from motion sickness as it’s a VERY winding road.

Playing pass the pigs by the camper van!

The site itself is pretty basic and no frills but has everything a camper could need. There’s a toilet and shower block – though I should warn you that if you don’t like creepy crawlies, it could be an issue as there are quite a few daddy long legs spiders who’ve made the block their home. They won’t touch you, but our kids weren’t fans. There’s also a washing up block with sinks and a washing machine.

Outside the blocks there’s a small communal area with seating and I think there’s one inside for use in non pandemic times too. There are sites for tents, motorhomes and vans with electric hook up, and the boundary of the site is a beautiful beach. There’s also free WiFi, and dogs are welcome. Campfires are allowed, and we spent evenings toasting marshmallows, listening to the sound of the sea and gazing at constellations in the clear dark sky – Jupiter and Saturn were visible, it was so clear! Waking up to the sound of the waves lapping at the shore nearby was pretty special, too.

You’re spoilt for choice with things to do in the area. On the Friday evening we headed to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse and the most westerly point of the UK mainland to see a spectacular sunset as we were buffeted by the winds coming in off the ocean. The lighthouse is the only lighthouse in the world designed in an “Egyptian’ style – it’s automatically operated now, but fully operational.

There are also a number of beautiful beaches – we spent an afternoon at Sanna Bay, which we had almost to ourselves. It’s a perfect expanse of white sand and clear blue sea, and we spent a few lovely hours kayaking, swimming, sunbathing and jumping off the sand dunes. Geologically, it’s a fascinating place to visit too, as it’s part of a concentric circle of volcanos, with plenty of wildlife to see as well.

Paddle boarding and kayaking at Sanna Bay

Another day we took the CalMac ferry from Kilchoan to Tobermory on nearby Mull. We were foot passengers, but you can also choose to take the car – though be warned that if the pandemic is still live if you take the car on the ferry, you won’t be allowed to leave your car for the 40 minute journey to enjoy the beautiful views from the top of the ferry across to the Small Isles. We spent a few hours in Tobermory doing a treasure trail that we’d downloaded in advance – a great way to see the town and learn about its history – while Colin visited the distillery.

Tobermory Bay

On our last day we climbed Ben Hiant, the highest point on the peninsula, and from where the sun rose each morning from the campsite. It’s not a particularly challenging hill at 528m, and the views at the top are breathtaking – across to the inner Hebridean islands and the mainland. It took us just under 3 hours to get to the top and back down.

Our view from Ben Hiant

You can book your pitch at the campsite here – they do get busy throughout the season, so make sure you book well in advance. Do go and explore this remote, unspoilt corner of Scotland – it’s been on our to visit list for years, and I only wish we hadn’t waited so long!

Vegan Spaghetti Carbonara

Is there anyone who doesn’t like spaghetti carbonara? The good news is that – as with everything – there’s a vegan version so no one needs to miss out! This vegan spaghetti carbonara recipe is really quick and easy with little prep and easy to find ingredients.

I’ve given the recipe for the sauce here and will leave pasta quantities up to you. This amount is enough for roughly four large bowls of carbonara.

You’ll need a blender to make this – I used a Nutribullet.

Ingredients

1 packet Quorn vegan ham, chopped into small squares. You can swap this for vegan bacon or use both!

Handful parsley to garnish

2 cloves garlic

1 tsp onion powder

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp nutritional yeast

400g cashews, soaked in water and drained

250 ml plant milk

150 g frozen peas

Method

First, blend the cashews, garlic, milk, onion powder, nutritional yeast and salt together. Add some warm water or olive oil if the consistency isn’t runny enough for you.

Then cook the pasta, adding the frozen peas to the water a couple of minutes before the pasta is cooked.

Heat the sauce in a large wok, adding the ham and the pasta, and combine. Garnish with the parsley and serve!