camping - Swim Sky Breathe

October 12, 2020December 2, 2020

Camping Adventures in Ardnamurchan

We spent a wonderful weekend this September camping in Ardnamurchan in the western Scottish Highlands. I’ve lived in Scotland most of my life, and consider myself to be fairly well travelled in my own country – but had never visited the Ardnamurchan peninsula until last weekend. All I really knew about it was that there was a lighthouse there, a distillery where Colin has a cask of whisky, and that it was very remote.

We set off one Friday in September to spend two nights with family at the Ardnamurchan Campsite , situated just outside the pretty, remote village of Kilchoan

From Edinburgh, right on the other side of Scotland, it took us five hours to get to the campsite. Once you get off the motorway at Stirling, the journey is just a joy, with incredible scenery as you drive through the Trossachs and the lonely moors of Glencoe within the shadow of Buchaille Etive Mor. We stopped at the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum, where you can go to the loo and buy some fresh food in the cafe or some gifts and outdoor clothes if you feel inclined! There’s also a great cafe across the road at the Real Food Cafe – my vegan chickpea curry with chips was delicious, and you can order in advance on their website and pick the food up in the car park. Or, ten minutes on there are some incredible places to stop at Glencoe if you fancy eating your takeaway in one of the most scenic and iconic places in Scotland!

We stopped again at Ardgour for the five minute car ferry journey to Corran on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula, then on to the single track winding road to the campsite. The views of mountains, lochs and beaches are breathtaking, but do pack a travel sickness pill for anyone who suffers from motion sickness as it’s a VERY winding road.

Playing pass the pigs by the camper van!

The site itself is pretty basic and no frills but has everything a camper could need. There’s a toilet and shower block – though I should warn you that if you don’t like creepy crawlies, it could be an issue as there are quite a few daddy long legs spiders who’ve made the block their home. They won’t touch you, but our kids weren’t fans. There’s also a washing up block with sinks and a washing machine.

Outside the blocks there’s a small communal area with seating and I think there’s one inside for use in non pandemic times too. There are sites for tents, motorhomes and vans with electric hook up, and the boundary of the site is a beautiful beach. There’s also free WiFi, and dogs are welcome. Campfires are allowed, and we spent evenings toasting marshmallows, listening to the sound of the sea and gazing at constellations in the clear dark sky – Jupiter and Saturn were visible, it was so clear! Waking up to the sound of the waves lapping at the shore nearby was pretty special, too.

You’re spoilt for choice with things to do in the area. On the Friday evening we headed to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse and the most westerly point of the UK mainland to see a spectacular sunset as we were buffeted by the winds coming in off the ocean. The lighthouse is the only lighthouse in the world designed in an “Egyptian’ style – it’s automatically operated now, but fully operational.

There are also a number of beautiful beaches – we spent an afternoon at Sanna Bay, which we had almost to ourselves. It’s a perfect expanse of white sand and clear blue sea, and we spent a few lovely hours kayaking, swimming, sunbathing and jumping off the sand dunes. Geologically, it’s a fascinating place to visit too, as it’s part of a concentric circle of volcanos, with plenty of wildlife to see as well.

Paddle boarding and kayaking at Sanna Bay

Another day we took the CalMac ferry from Kilchoan to Tobermory on nearby Mull. We were foot passengers, but you can also choose to take the car – though be warned that if the pandemic is still live if you take the car on the ferry, you won’t be allowed to leave your car for the 40 minute journey to enjoy the beautiful views from the top of the ferry across to the Small Isles. We spent a few hours in Tobermory doing a treasure trail that we’d downloaded in advance – a great way to see the town and learn about its history – while Colin visited the distillery.

On our last day we climbed Ben Hiant, the highest point on the peninsula, and from where the sun rose each morning from the campsite. It’s not a particularly challenging hill at 528m, and the views at the top are breathtaking – across to the inner Hebridean islands and the mainland. It took us just under 3 hours to get to the top and back down.

You can book your pitch at the campsite here – they do get busy throughout the season, so make sure you book well in advance. Do go and explore this remote, unspoilt corner of Scotland – it’s been on our to visit list for years, and I only wish we hadn’t waited so long!

August 5, 2020December 2, 2020

Ten super useful camping tips I’ve learned this summer

There are so many blogs and articles that contain brilliant camping tips both for camping in tents and vans that I read avidly before our trip this July and August. Here is some of the wisdom I’ve acquired since that trip that I hope is helpful!

I’ve found that every trip we take I think of something new – a way of doing things to make everything easier, or a new gadget that saves time and space. I’m sure by this time next summer I’ll have at least ten more camping tips to share on this blog.

1. NO BACON in the van! Vegan bacon smells amazing but the smell is just as strong as normal bacon, and it lingers for weeks afterwards. So we cook our bacon rolls outside, on the stove, under the gazebo if it’s raining. Same goes for cooking bacon in a large tent – don’t do it, the smell just does not go away!

2. Scented candles are a great thing to take with you camping. They can be left in the van (though not unattended – make sure someone is around and don’t go off for the day and leave it burning!) after cooking or before bedtime so that you fall asleep to everything smelling nice rather than the smell of dinner. Not needed of course if you’re lucky enough to be camping somewhere where you fall asleep to the scent of honeysuckle and mimosa wafting in from outside….

3. Routine – setting up and striking camp/ your van becomes so much easier when you have a fixed routine and order in which you do things. This will quickly become mechanical. For us it’s – arrive, pop the van top, set up the storage tent and gazebo which have been packed so we can get to them first, unpack everything else into the storage tent and under the gazebo.

3. Storage – Rather than having lots of bags and rucksacks containing various things, we have a three box system with three large plastic boxes. One is for bedding, one for food and cooking related items and one is for everything else such as games. Add to that a small clothing and toiletries bag for everyone and that’s all we pack for trips. It means everything can be found easily and the plastic boxes double up as tables as well as being fairly weatherproof.

4. Shoes for in the night – there’s nothing worse than needing to go to the loo in the middle of the night and scrabbling around for shoes. Have a pair that are waterproof in case its raining, easy to slip on and know where they are in the van or tent should nature call at 2am.

5. Know where everything is – this relates to storage above, but it makes such a difference if you have a place for everything in your van or tent, that everyone knows and sticks to so when you need the salt for cooking or the bungee cords to hang a light from, you’ll know exactly where they are and don’t need to waste ten minutes upturning everything to find them.

5. Games including solo games – important when camping with kids, especially on WiFi free campsites. Always have a stock of games that they can play, including games like Solitaire that they can play on their own if one of them doesn’t feel like playing. Our favourite camping game is Exploding Kittens. It’s brilliant fun and doesn’t take up much space. Sussed is another great game for 8 plus and also a space saver. Also include plenty of pens and paper, some activity books and a few reading books – our last camping trip saw our 10 year old bookworm devour three books in five days which necessitated a not-unwelcome trip to this lovely bookshop in Keswick for some more!

6. Download videos on an iPad or laptop for those camping evenings when everyone’s a bit fed up, when the kids are fighting, you can hear the rain bouncing off the roof of the tent/van and it’s COLD – they do happen with the best will in the world. The thing to do on those evening is to get everyone in their sleeping bags, make some hot chocolate and stick on the Harry Potter film you cleverly downloaded earlier.

7. Collapsible washing up bowl – there are so many camping gadgets you can spend money on, but this one I’ve found super useful. Means you’re not balancing a pile of dirty dishes on the trek to the washing up station, or dropping the clean ones in the mud on the walk back, as I did one rainy evening!

8. Plenty of water – seems obvious but make sure that you have plenty of receptacles for water, and that you keep them filled and handy, avoiding miserable middle of the night moments when you wake up with a raging thirst to an empty water bottle and a walk through the rain with your torch to fill it up.

9. Plenty of towels – at least two per person. These don’t need to be luxury, fluffy, towels – we always pack our thinnest, oldest towels for camping. But make sure you pack enough so that there’s alway at least one dry towel for everyone. Don’t be like me and have to borrow your teenager’s towel for a shower, which you later learn she used to wipe the floor of the shower cubicle.

10. MIDGE CREAM! This is VERY specific to camping in the west of Scotland but so important. We were attacked by a vicious cloud of midges while in the Cairngorms and had to break out the midge cream and apply it in extreme haste – even then, we were all left with a few bites that tormented for days afterwards. If you’re camping in this area, insect repellent really isn’t an optional extra. If you’d prefer not to use cream, or as an add-on, invest in a hat with a mesh screen and make sure you cover every bit of skin so they have nothing to bite!

August 3, 2020December 2, 2020

A little corner of zen in Wales – Nantgwynfaen Farm

You know your happy place, the place you go to in your head when all around you is stress and noise and worry? From now on I think my new happy place will be the beautiful, peaceful glade that we had all to ourselves for three days when we camped at Nantgwynfaen Farm, a beautiful organic farm in the Teifi Valley in South Wales.

The farm, situated in rural Pembrokeshire and about half an hour from the Pembroke coast, offers BandB, glamping in the wonderful Glamavan, and camping in one of five private pitches. We stayed in Love at First Site, a gated glade enclosed by hedges and trees, about 300m from the main farmhouse.

Run by the very lovely Amanda and Ken, the farm offers facilities including WiFi at the farmhouse – though not on the campsites – showers, wood, and an organic farm shop run on trust, so you take items and fill in a ledger to be added up at the end of your stay. There are also toilets – ours was a compost toilet which we were initially a little reticent about having never used one, but it was surprisingly airy and odour free! Ken, who makes wooden furniture in his spare time, will also bake his delicious flowerpot seeded bread to order for guests.

Jam and marmalade from the shop with Ken’s flowerpot bread for breakfast

Our site was so secluded and quiet and felt as close to wild camping as its possible to get on a campsite. Our shower was on the site – an outdoor shower that also doubled as a tap for the sink and dishwashing station. There was a picnic table and benches where we ate meals and played board games, and a fire bowl for campfires at night, over which we toasted marshmallows and corn on the cob. We had so much space – enough for a tent, the van, our camping chairs and plenty of room left for yoga and ball games.

Nearby Nantgwynfaen Farm is the Pembrokeshire coast, with all it has to offer. We had a surfing lesson with Outer Reef Surf School at Freshwater West, one of Wales’ top surfing beaches (also the setting for Dobby’s final scene in Harry Potter). As beginners, we were all a little nervous but within half an hour were all riding waves lying flat on our boards, as well as falling off more than once and getting a few mouthfuls of sand! Nearby Cardigan and Aberaeron are beautiful with shops, cafes and views, and we also spent a beautifully sunny afternoon at Penbryn beach with its golden sands and caves to explore.

Stay at Nantgwynfaen if you want to truly get away from it all. You’ll leave feeling restored and full of inner zen with beautiful memories to cherish.

3 nights in July on Nantgwynfaen Farm cost £96 for two adults, a teenager and two children – more information here.

July 21, 2020December 2, 2020

Camping in Shieldaig – our first trip in our van Irene!

The July weekend we spent camping in Shieldaig was extra special as it was so long awaited. We timed the purchase of our campervan a little badly, not that we could have known this at the time back in the pre Covid days of 2020 January! It took a few weeks for the van to be converted, so by the time it was ready it coincided almost immediately with lockdown and we were only able to enjoy a couple of days out in it before leaving it to sit forlornly outside our house. In that time we decided to name her Irene, after Colin’s grandma who sadly died last year.

Once it was announced that we could go somewhere with Irene, we knew we wanted to head north west for the fresh clean air of the Highlands. We’d never visited Shieldaig before, a tiny village on the north west Highland coast, and the newly renovated campsite there overlooking the sea looked perfect.

Shieldaig is well known for Shieldaig Island a short distance from the shore, on which a pair of newly reintroduced to Scotland white tailed eagles live with their chicks. We didn’t see the eagles, but the island is a popular spot for local swimmers and kayakers to circle around. We also spotted the local war monument, which shows amongst the village men who lost their lives in both wars the name of a local Shieldaig woman – newly wed Margaret McKenzie – who tragically died aboard the Lusitania in 1915.

There’s a well stocked village shop and two restaurants that overlook the shore, all two minutes walk of the well appointed campsite. The Shieldaig Coastal Kitchen has a roof terrace overlooking the bay, though the menu is meat and fish heavy with very little for vegans and vegetarians. The campsite owners, locals Ruairidh and Hazel, are very friendly and accommodating and were really helpful and responsive in the run up to our trip. The hard standing electric pitches had grass next to them for a pup tent, and there are also grass pitches and two glamping cabins, as well as showers, toilets and a laundry and washing up room.

There are plenty of things to do in the surrounding area. We decided to drive to Skye, which is around an hour away over the Skye Bridge. Colin used to live in Skye and claims partial responsibility for the waiving of the bridge toll after he protested paying it back in the nineties. His 2020 wife and children were very grateful for his teenage protest! We headed to Glenbrittle to swim in the fairy pools, then visited the lovely capital of Portree, where we had some of the best chippy chips ever at the small harbour – fried in vegetable oil and just the right combination of greasy and crispy.

Crossing the stepping stones on the way to the Fairy Pool. Wear sturdy shoes – don’t be like me who ended up with soaking wet Converse!

Closer to Shieldaig, there are the Torridon Hills of Beinn Alligin, Sgurr Mhor, Liathach and Beinn Eighe which vary in difficulty, as well as countless hill and shore walks for all abilities. To the south is the town of Applecross, which can be reached on one of the most breathtaking drives in the country; with its tight bends and spectacular views, it’s the steepest road in the UK. You can also go for a swim in the clear waters off Shieldaig shore if you want a morning pick me up – the village and shore are two minute’s walk from the campsite. Shieldaig is also a great place to stop for those touring the North Coast 500. If you’re lucky you might spot a red deer, and we saw a baby red squirrel as well as fields of iconic Highland cows.

The view from the campsite – waking up to this was pretty unbeatable!

As our trip camping in Shieldaig was our first outing in our van, it was definitely a learning experience. I expected to forget more things than we actually did – which were a scourer for the dishes and a small dustpan and brush for the van floor. The van was so comfortable to sleep in, and the view that we woke up to each morning was breathtaking, despite the typically Highland weather – when you’re holidaying in the west of Scotland, good weather is a bonus but never something to be relied upon, so pack good shoes and a waterproof coat! I really recommend this lovely tranquil place at the edge of Scotland for those who want to disconnect from all the noise and reconnect with nature. You won’t want to leave, and we will definitely be back.

https://www.shieldaigcampingandcabins.co.uk/