Edinburgh is most famous for its castle, festivals, tourism and tartanry, but many well travelled folk might be surprised to know that it’s also a superb destination for wild swimming.
Over here on the east coast of Scotland, we’re spoiled for choice. Most residents won’t have to travel too far (I’d say 30 mins on bike or in car) to get to a decent swimming location. For most of us, it’s even less.
There are two main areas: the coastal beaches at Wardie Bay and Portobello, and a series of reservoirs in the Pentland Hills, which overlook the capital from the south and south west.
There are other choices, too, and you’ll find mention of them below, but first we’ll point our goggles in the direction of Edinburgh’s most famous outdoor swimming venue, Portobello Beach.
Portobello Beach
Portobello has been Edinburgh’s go-to swimming destination for decades! There was once an outdoor pool here, but even since it was filled in and concreted over, people still dipped in the sea. But it was the formation of The Wild Ones Facebook group in 2011 that gave wild swimming in Edinburgh a fresh impetus.
This long stretch of sandy beach is broken up every 250 metres (roughly) by wooden groynes that stretch into the sea, and keep the sand in place. Most people start their swim outside Portobello Swim Centre, getting changed at the nearby wooden groyne.
Rather than swimming out, you tend to swim down the shore and back, the groynes proving a welcome way to measure distance.
Another fairly popular spot to get in is Joppa, which is a better spot when the beach gets really busy. Not so much of a problem during winter!
But it doesn’t really matter where you go as the area is perfect for swimming, having been awarded designated bathing water status, meaning its water quality is regularly monitored.
At low tide, you’ll have to walk very far out to be in deep water, and most people don’t. At high tide however, the beach does drop quite quickly so you’re likely to out of your depth even if you’re relatively close to the shore.
You will often see swimmers here at most times of days, and until Covid hit, Sunday mornings at 9.30am was the regular meeting time, although many people arrange swims through the Facebook group or privately.
Of course, travel further east and you’ll cross many other lovely beaches further along the coast. Fisherrow, Musselburgh, Longniddry, Gullane, Seacliff, Yellow Craigs, Tyninghame, Belhaven Beach. Most of them within an hour’s drive from Edinburgh, a few accessible by train, and all accessible by a lovely, albeit long, cycle.
Wardie Bay
Heading in the other direction, a few miles west along the coast from Portobello, past the historic borough of Leith and the picturesque Newhaven Harbour, you’ll get to Wardie Bay, a wee wild and urban beach that is massively different in character to the resort-likeness of Portobello.
Like Portobello, it’s all sand underfoot and is swimmable at all tides and most conditions. The shelf drops off moderately sharply at high tide, so you’ll be out of your depth fairly quickly. At low tide you can be walking for 100m out and still in your depth.
Due to its popularity, it also has its own dedicated Facebook group, the Wardie Bay Wild Ones and in recent times there has been a concerted effort by the local community and beach users to keep Wardie Bay clean and get it awarded designated bathing status.
You’ll often see swimmers down here, getting changed on either side of the beach, and along it on the grass. Not quite a machair, but we can pretend.
You’ve probably three options for a swim:
Out round the buoys that are dotted to the east of the breakwater wall – the nearest ones (a yellow and pale pink one are about 250-350 metres away at high tide). The further orange one is about 650-700 metres away. There’s a yellow buoy further out but you really need to watch if going out that far as you’re crossing into the line of traffic. Not recommended.
Another nice swim is along the shoreline to the tower that sticks out about 650 metres from the beach, apron halfway to Newhaven Harbour. Best go at mid or high tide, and if you go when there’s a flood tide (coming in) you’ll get an assist on the way back.
But for many people, criss-crossing the bay is enough and you’ll often see people going in for a dip and doing lengths of the bay from the breakwater wall to the rocks that reach out on the other side of the sand.
A few words of warning. While the tidal pull here is mild, it is noticeable. Bear that in mind if you’re swimming out round the buoys and coming back on an ebb tide (tide going out). It’s not something to be overly concerned about, but if it catches you by surprise that could cause a bit of anxiety in you or perhaps less experienced swimmers.
At high tide, with a big swell and crashing waves, it’s dangerous and even the strongest swimmers should think carefully about going in.
I always keep a good 50metres from the wall. It’s used by fisherman and I don’t want to go near their lines.
On hot calm weather a jet skier or two may approach. They’ve been warned that there’s swimmers in the water, but they still do it. Any sounds of the jet skier, I would recommend swimming towards the wall or getting out.
Most other boats will keep beyond the buoys but you do need to remain aware at all times while swimming, listening and looking out for yachts and fishing boats who very occasionally do come within the buoys.
Cramond Beach
Westwards along the shore from Wardie Bay is Cramond Beach.
Folk do swim here, and I’ve enjoyed it a couple of times, but the general consensus is that the River Almond that flows into it is a bit manky and that it is maybe ill advised. The times I’ve gone in, I’ve entered by the beach by the stone fish down from the Cramond flag pole and walkway to Cramond Island.
I’d love to do a swim from Cramond Isle to the mainland sometime.
You can only really swim here at high tide, but do be mindful of the tidal current here. Another risk – and I’m not sure how serious it is – is that the bed towards Cramond Isle can be quite soft and sucky. I can’t for a moment imagine anyone getting stuck in it, but still, worth mentioning.
Pentland Reservoirs
Threipmuir is an easy one, and popular with beginners, families, experienced swimmers and triathleses. Big enough to get some distance in, it’s also very shallow in places so if you can stand the mu round your ankles then it’s fine to stand up in.
Access at the nearby car park, or the one at Harlaw or cycle, though you’ll have to negotiate a big ascent!
Although there’re hills around it, it’s wide open and flat and does get exposed to wind and get choppy, which is good fun!
Most people get changed near the bench at the top end or on a beach nearer the wall. Keep well clear of these. I don’t know the optimum distance to keep away from gates (50 metres minimum) but I don’t go past the spit of land that sticks out.
Torduff Reservoir lies to the south west of Edinburgh, just off the bypass. I’d say this is for experienced swimmers only. Deep, cold, and only two entry points at either end, it’s not one for swimmers who aren’t comfortable with swimming a few km in cold water. Park at the Bonaly Car Park (or cycle) and walk over. Get in on the slope on the other side of the towers.
These sluice gates are closed and only opened twice a year, but I still wouldn’t go near them, although people do jump off them.
Bonaly and Harlaw reservoirs tend to be busy with fishermen. I tend to avoid.
Gladhouse Reservoir
Further afield, Gladhouse Reservoir, south of Edinburgh and out past Dalkeith is a joy to swim in.
Parking is a bit of a pain since a new fence was erected, but if you’re careful and canny you can usually find somewhere to park up, even on very busy days. Most people will access via the north-western edge where beautiful Scots pine overlook a few rocky or gravel beaches.
The two islands give good loops to swim around, and the whole circuit is rough 5k, an excellent training ground for those of you wanting to push the distance. But it’s a lovely place to go for a quiet (apart from high summer) dip!
Beware, while it gets very warm in the summer, it can get brutally cold in the winter. It’s where many swimmers go to crack the ice!
Fife
As well as the beaches along the Lothian Coast, you’re also not far away from the likes of the lifeguarded Silver Sands beach at Aberdour, Burntisland Beach, or the water centre at Lochore, all in Fife.
Water of Leith
And for the adventurous, there are some pools in the Water of Leith that are worth a wee explore! I know a couple of swimmers who’ve spent time discovering these spots and share their knowledge reluctantly … so you’ll just have to trust me on this one, or go find them yourself!
Places to Avoid!
Then there are a few places where I personally wouldn’t recommend swimming. People have in the past enquired about Duddingston Loch, the wee lochs on Arthur’s seat. These are ripe in bird droppings and I wouldn’t even think about it. Nor would I go near the aforementioned Almond River. I’ve seen excrement flow in here from the wee burn that comes out from the airport; a shocking and depressing indication of the contempt that larger organisations have for our coasts and waterways.
Spoilt for choice
We really are spolit for choice for places to wild swim in and around Edinburgh. As well as the city beaches and nearby reservoirs, we also have cracking swimming venues in East Lothian and Fife, and I haven’t even gotten on to West Lothian!
It’s one of the reasons why Edinburgh wild swimming has exploded in recent years, and why there are now several coaches in the area, including myself, supporting swimmers with their swimming, safety and confidence.
To read more on open water swimming, including what to wear and what to bring, see my Guide to Open Water Swimming.