This February half term, we headed north to stay with family in Doune. Doune is a beautiful village in Perthshire, about an hour north of Edinburgh and Glasgow. It’s also where Colin grew up, and where we were married, as well as the place where Colin’s parents still live, so holds a very special place in our hearts. Its location in Perthshire means that it’s also perfectly positioned to explore the wilds of Scotland from, and although exploring Scotland in February isn’t necessarily the warmest time to do it. we decided that we’d take the time to go and see some parts of Scotland we’ve always wanted to know better.
On the driest day of our holiday, we headed north to Loch Awe. Loch Awe is the third largest freshwater loch in Scotland, as well as being the longest Scottish loch. We’ve driven up its eastern edge more times than I can count on our way to Oban, but never stopped to explore. This time, we decided to stop in Loch Awe village to explore St Conan’s Kirk and its beautiful views across the Loch.
St Conan’s was originally built as a chapel of ease by the Campbell family for those who could not easily reach the parish church. Amongst other things it houses a fragment of bone from Robert the Bruce, and a beautiful stained glass window from South Leith Church. There was a touching tribute to a member of the Campbell family who’d fallen in the Crimea after stopping to give water to a wounded enemy, and the wooden beams in the cloisers are thought to have come from two Royal Navy battleships. Our favourite part was the grounds though, with carefully tended gardens and incredible views across the water. If you’re headed up to the Highlands any time soon, do take time to stop and look around this beautiful building.
Our original plan was to go for a swim in Loch Awe, but the one spot we saw on the south edge of the loch was occupied by fishermen so we decided to leave swimming for another day. The best place to swim in Loch Awe is on its east side, at Dalavich, which is on our list for next time.
After Loch Awe we headed south down the A819 to the shores of Loch Fyne and Inveraray. There’s plenty to do here, including visiting the Inveraray Jail and the castle when it’s open, as well as visiting the shops, cafes and restaurants (though sadly the chip shop was not vegan friendly as the chips were fried in beef dripping :()
We headed past the castle – seat of Clan Campbell and the Duke of Argyll – to make our way up the hill to the Dun na Cuaiche Watchtower, passing over an ornate bridge (we played Pooh Sticks on it on the way back!) and trees that were planted by Queen Victoria. It’s not a big hill at 248m, and not too steep. The hike takes you through beautiful woodland, and you don’t have to walk far before glimpsing stunning views across the Argyll hills. Regular arrow signs tell you that you’re on the right path as you wind round the hill to the top to take in the watchtower. As we came out of the woods and drizzle, we were greeted by the sight of a perfect rainbow.
The tower was built as a folly in 1756 rather than an actual watchtower, and has stood the test of time for almost three hundred years, despite having been struck by lightning several times. We stopped to rest inside the tower and take in the breath-taking panorama across Loch Fyne and Inveraray, with the castle in the foreground. This is an easy, scenic walk, and you can reward yourself with a hot meal down at the bottom in the George Hotel with its roaring fires and vegan friendly menu.
The next day, despite the snow and rain and slightly achy legs from the previous day’s walk, we decided to go up Ben A’an. Ben A’an is like a miniature mountain – at 1512 feet it’s only roughly half the size of the smallest munro – but it’s steep at the beginning and end, with a fairly flat part in the middle. We’d climbed it for the first time back in 2020, just before lockdown, so I was excited by the opportunity to do it again.
The climb up Ben A’an starts at the car park across the road, and I won’t lie….it starts off hard! Climbing up some steep steps and past a sheer drop to the river on your right, it’s wise to take your time and pace yourself if you don’t want to tire yourself out. The middle of the climb offers some respite, and you can see the peak of the mountain ahead of you as you cross little streams and enjoy some of Scotland’s most beautiful scenery with the Trossachs in front of you. You’ll need your energy for the last third of the walk, which is steep and feels a bit relentless, but absolutely worth it as you swing left for the final steps to the peak and the vista of Loch Katrine.
Even on a cold day in February, the mountain was busy, so be aware that it gets even busier in summer – worth bearing in mind as there are parts of the ascent that only admit one person at a time. Though it’s always good to have an excuse to have a little rest while you’re waiting for someone to pass!
You can read more of our Scottish adventures here.